Luang Prabang

Understand

Set at the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the town, and beneath a temple-topped hill, Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture, reminders of when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochina. Golden-roofed wats (temples), decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha, sit under the gaze of wrap-around teak balconies and 19th-century shuttered windows. All of this is set against a backdrop of verdant greenery and rugged mountains. Luang Prabang is a relatively small city with an atmospheric and charming personality. With UNESCO so closely involved and a largely responsible group of local business owners, the pressures of mass tourism have been held at bay, but for how much longer remains to be seen. Restaurants in the main street cater for luxury tourists. More typical Lao venues can still be found along the Mekong. From late February to April, slash-and-burn agriculture creates a smoky haze that can irritate eyes and lungs, obscuring the scenery.

History

Luang Prabang rose to prominence as the capital of the first Lao kingdom (Lan Xang, land of the million elephants) from 1353. The city owes its present name to the Pha Bang, a revered Buddha image (now in the Royal Palace Museum) which was brought to the city by King Visoun during the golden age of Lan Xang in the early 1500s. The fragmentation of the Lao kingdom at the end of the 16th century left Luang Prabang a militarily weak independent city state paying tribute to surrounding kingdoms. The 1887 sacking of the city by the Chinese Haw led the Luang Prabang monarchy to accept the "protection" of the French, whose influence led to the construction of the many fine colonial villas that sit harmoniously alongside traditional Lao architecture. The Kingdom of Luang Prabang lasted from 1707 until it was reorganised by the French into French Indochina in 1947. From 1896 until its dissolution the royal family of the Kingdom of Luang Prabang remained in the city as figureheads, with the real power residing with the French Resident-General. The French also chose members of the royal court. This however gave the city a small degree of difference from the rest of Laos, which was directly controlled by the French. The city fell into decline in the latter half of the 20th century following the reluctant withdrawal of the French, and the 1975 revolution which brought an end to the Luang Prabang monarchy. The relative poverty of newly independent Laos perhaps helped save Luang Prabang from the ravages of 20th-century city planning. The reopening of Laos to tourism in 1989 resulted in a remarkable turnaround in the city's fortunes, as crumbling timber houses and colonial mansions were sensitively restored and transformed into immaculate guesthouses and boutique hotels. In 1995 the city was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. However as of 2024 UNESCO raised concerns regarding overdevelopment of the city, leaving open the possibility of removing the city from the World Heritage List.

Getting there

Luang Prabang International Airport is a visa-on-arrival and e-Visa entry point. See Laos#Get in for details. Visa extensions are possible at the immigration office opposite the Rama Hotel. The cost is US$2/day plus a US$2 form fee. The process is very easy. Turn up in the morning with your passport and one photo. Fill in a form (in Luang Prabang they do this for you) and come back in the afternoon for your extension.

By plane

1 Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ IATA) (4 km north of town). Laos's second largest airport, and as of 2023 offers services to several destinations in the region, including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Siem Reap, and Vientiane. (updated Jul 2023) A tuk-tuk costs 80-100,000 kip (Mar 2020). There is a taxi counter at the exit of the arrival hall. Taxis are a flat rate of 80,000 kip for 1–2 people (as of Dec 2022). If you're traveling light, a walk from the airport to the town center takes about 1 hour. There are four ATMs just outside the arrival hall.

By train

Train is by far the fastest, most comfortable way to reach Luang Prabang, but demand consistently outstrips supply and it can be hard to buy a ticket. See Laos–China Railway for the latest and consider booking through a travel agent. Five fast standard-gauge trains run daily from Vientiane via Phonhong and Vang Vieng, taking two hours to Luang Prabang. Three or four continue north to Muang Xay, Luang Namtha and Boten on the border with China. Another train crosses, allowing four hours for border formalities at Boten / Mo Han, then onward to Kunming South Station for high-speed connections across China. The southbound train leaves Kunming at 08:00 to reach Luang Prabang by 15:50 and Vientiane for 17:40. 2 Luang Prabang railway station is 12 km east of the old city. A seat on a shared minibus (green bus) costs a fixed 40,000 kip (US$2, August 2026). You find the minibuses once you leave the train station and go down the stairs. There are tents where you can buy the tickets for the minibus. To get to the station from the city center, have your guesthouse or hostel call the minivan for you (do not follow the timetable from the van stop). The railway station is huge and clean. As of January 2024, there are toilets, Cafe Amazon, Dairy Queen and a small 7-Eleven to buy drinks and snacks, as well as two ATMs outside the station entrance (to your left.) Beware if you get dropped off at the train station gate, as taxis need to pay 30k kip to enter, so you will have a long walk including up lots of stairs to the station. There is a lift at the carpark to the station above, but it seems to be out of order much of time. So if you get dropped off there, you still have to climb the many stairs with your luggage. The green mini buses take you to the station level. Ideally your train will stop at platform 1 for easy access. If platform 2, then you will have to go down the stairs or escalators with your luggage, walk to platform 2, then up again. The green minibus takes you to Thatluang Park. There may also be minivans that drop you at your hotel (50,000 kip).

Getting around

Luang Prabang's Old Town is only about 1.5 km long and 500 m wide, which makes it small enough to comfortably cover on foot, and this is in fact the only way to climb Phousi Hill. The city is also quite flat, which makes cycling an attractive option, although the ever-increasing traffic makes this dangerous at times. For longer trips, your options are basically negotiating with open-air tuk-tuks, or arranging a tour package with your hotel or a travel agent, which will likely see you crammed into one of the ubiquitous silver Toyota minivans. (Large buses and trucks are both banned in the old town.) Prices for both are always per person unless you explicitly negotiate a charter. Loca ridehailing is also available.

1 Green Bus shuttle station. A cheap way to get Kuang Si Falls and other attractions on the way, is to catch the new green mini bus (Oct 2025). Buy a one way ticket for 45k kip or 90k return. Buses leave their bus station in Thatluang Park at 08:00, 09:30, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30 and 15:00. You can leave your bike here (bring a lock), making an easy way to connect with the buses starting point. They also have buses to and from the train station for 30k kip, if you arrive at Luang Prabang and see about 4 green mini buses, they might be a cheap easy option into town. 2 Bicycle Rental, LP Holiday Travel Co on Kingkitsalat Rd (adjacent a school). This place rents mountain bikes and City Bikes, some with rear kids seats. 60k per day.

See

Arts and crafts

1 Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre, Ban Saylom (on the banks of the Mekong 2 km south of the city), ☏ +856 71 212 597. An informative free tour to all visitors (last tour at 16:30). Operating as a fair trade traditional weaving centre, you can take classes in bamboo/textile weaving, dye your own silk, draw your own batik or just relax at the Mekong garden cafe. A free tuk-tuk departs daily from the Ock Pop Tok shop in the city at 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00, with other times possible by agreement. 2 Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre, Ban Khamyong, ☏ +856 71 253 364, information@taeclaos.org. This small, but perfectly formed museum is dedicated to the ethnic cultures of Laos. Find out more about the groups that make Laos unique and enrich your visit to Luang Prabang. Closed on Mondays, and occasionally other times for exhibitions. On site shop and cafe, with an outlet shop close to the Ock Pop Tok shop. 30,000 kip. (updated Dec 2023) 3 Heuan Chan Heritage House. 09:00-17:00. A museum with one of the few remaining pre-colonisation houses. It also features an area to dress in costumes, learn different crafting technique and quite a good cafe for lunch. 30,000 kip. (updated Jan 2024)

Local landmarks and culture

4 Alms ceremony (Sai Bat), Sisavangvong Rd. Daily 05:00-06:00. Monks at dawn collect alms of rice from kneeling villagers (and early-rising tourists). Ask your guesthouse host to assist you the day before in preparing if you'd like to get up and give alms in the morning. The alms giving ceremony is one which, while picturesque, is not without its detractors. Unscrupulous local merchants have used the eagerness of tourists to participate in this tradition as a means of making easy money. They sometimes sell unsuitable, stale and even unsafe food, resulting in monks falling ill after having consumed the offerings, Hence the growing resistance to continuing the tradition. The government, however, has made it clear that the monks must continue the custom or be replaced by lay persons clothed in saffron robes in order to keep up appearances, thereby maintaining tourist revenue. If you wish to participate in this ceremony, prepare the food or fruit yourself. Avoid giving food of dodgy quality. Another problem is the rampant photography: while a photo might look nice in your collection, think about how it must feel for the monks to have hundreds of tourists photographing them every day. Some lowlifes even stand next to the monks, blinding them with flashbulbs. Consider watching this old tradition from a distance instead of degrading it. 5 Royal Palace National Museum (ຫໍຄຳ Haw Kham). 08:00-11:30 and 13:30-16:00. The former royal palace, now a national museum. It is not a national history museum however. You pass through the state rooms and the private rooms of the royal family and can see the collection of official cars. No photos, videos, bags, or shoes allowed, free locker provided. No bare shoulders, midriffs or knees; you can rent a cloth for 5,000 kip at the locker room if needed. Also on the grounds of the palace is the former royal temple. 30,000 kip. (updated Oct 2022) 6 Royal Ballet Theatre (ຫໍຄຳ Haw Kham). Oct-Mar: 18:00, Mar-Oct: 16:30. Every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evening there is a show featuring one part of the Lao epic Phra Lak Phra Ram. The show is about an hour long and in Lao with story and dance sequences. There are Lao, English and French synopsis available at the ticket desk. The ticket desk opens at least 1/2 an hour before the show and is accessed by entering Royal Palace Museum entrance gate. The museum is closed at this time so entry is free. Curiously the ticket desk is not attended while the museum is open, although they do have the schedule and current ticket prices. Also, the website has a form for tickets, but they do not seem to respond to it. 200,000 kip, 50% for children. (updated Dec 2023) 7 Phou Si Hill (ພະທາດພູສີ). Phou Si Hill dominates the city, and you can get a great view of the whole area from the summit. There are trails from both sides of the hill, including one just across the road from the Royal Palace/National Museum, and it's about 320 steps to the top. Sunrise and sunset are the most sensible and rewarding times to go. There is a near-panoramic view from the top. The ticket office closes at 18:30, so climbing to the top is virtually free afterwards, which gives you about 30 minutes before it gets dark. If you take the south path down, you'll go past several temples including one claiming to enshrine the Buddha's (rather large!) footprint. 20,000 kip (children free). (updated Dec 2023) 8 Haw Pha Bang. (updated Dec 2024) 9 Wat Sensoukharam. (updated Dec 2024) 10 Wat Xieng Thong (ວັດຊຽງທອງ) (The entrance is on the by-lane off the main road. Towards the road along the Mekong is only an exit.). 06:00-18:00. The oldest monastery in town and one of the most beautiful. Foreigners: 30,000 kip, Lao nationals: 5,000 kip. (updated Nov 2024) 11 Vipassana Temple and Park (Wat Phon Phao;ວັດໂພນເພົາ). This golden temple, highly visible from Phou Si, is a shrine for Buddhists who practice Vipassana meditation. 12 UXO Lao Visitor Centre. M–F 08:00–12:00 and 13:00–16:00. A small information centre with samples of the various UXO (unexploded ordnance) that has been found, information about the scope of the problem and a room with a documentary to watch. Makes the issue just a bit more salient when you see it. Free (donation box). (updated Jan 2024)

Outside the city

13 Kuang Si Falls (ຕາດ ກວາງຊີ) (Some 29 km S of Luang Prabang). 08:00-17:30. The stunning Kuang Si Falls are Luang Prabang's top natural attraction. Cascading through multi-level limestone terraces, the color of the water usually varies between milky blue and a deep turquoise, although after heavy rains they can temporarily turn brown. Tuk-tuks, private or shared, green bus from Thatluang Park (45k kip one way), tours drop you at the parking area, from where free electric golf carts next to the ticket booths shuttle around 1 km up the hill at the park entrance. From here, take the signposted "Foot Trail" to the right, which takes you through the Bear Rescue Centre (below) to the base of the waterfalls.There are three tiered pools that are safe for swimming, although you'll want to wear sandals or reef shoes since the rubble can be sharp. There are some basic toilets can be used as changing rooms, as well as the pleasant Green Jungle restaurant that serves up fried rice and the like ($2 and up). If you keep going up, you'll get to the main waterfall that cascades down from a height of nearly 60 meters, a gorgeous sight especially after rain when it fans out. The paved road to the left of the park entrance leads directly here, so it's also where all the tour groups are shunted, and there are plenty of picnic tables if you've packed a lunch.A small trail to the left leads via 542 steel steps to the top of the waterfalls, where you'll find a few more pools with a swing and a guy with a boat offering a 200 m punt up the river for 20,000 kip per person. There is also a treetop cafe with great view over the surrounding jungle hills (30,000 kip to enter) and a zipline that brings you back down to the lower basins (US$25). Beware that the signposted route way down the other side of the falls is much steeper than the way up and can be extremely muddy and slippery, so do not attempt this after rain or without proper shoes.A seat on a shared tuk-tuk to the falls and back including 3–4 hours waiting time costs around US$6, as does a cheap scooter rental for one day, while a private charter for 4-5 runs around US$22–25. The same in an air-conditioned minivan runs around US$12/50 shared/chartered. It's worth getting here as early as you can to beat the crowds and the heat, although the forest is nice and shady. The road is twisty but paved and takes around 45 minutes one way, and there are plenty of restaurants and shops both at the ticketing point and the park entrance. Every travel agent and hotel in Luang Prabang also runs Kuang Si tours, which typically tack on a mediocre lunch and a visit to one of the elephant centers.Be aware that the road is very dangerous on a scooter, due to the pot-holes filled with sand, as well as the hundreds of tourist-filled vans that speed up and down the road all day. Travellers have reported several horrifying scooter accidents on this road, including full-body grazes and broken bones requiring ambulance pick-up and time in hospital. Foreigners: 60,000 kip, Lao nationals: 10,000 kip. (updated Nov 2024) 14 Bear Rescue Centre (adjacent to the path to the Kuang Si Waterfalls). Operated by the Free the bears charity with various enclosure for endangered Asiatic black bears, both Moon and Sun bears, that have been rescued from poachers. Small gift shop. No entrance fee but donations welcomed. (updated Nov 2022) 15 Pak Ou Caves. The famous "Buddha caves" are north of the city on the Mekong and can be reached by road (approximately 1 hr), with a car there and back including waiting to you costing up to 500,000 kip, or river boat (around 1.5 hr). Alternatively, you can hire canoes and a guide for the day, which would allow you to view the beautiful scenery and visit the caves without throngs of other tourists. It's also possible to finish the trip at the "whisky village" where the local Lao lao (rice spirit) is made. There are two caves, one on the entry level and another, the upper caves, on top of the hill. A very steep climb, but worth the effort. A torch is needed to see the upper cave. Simply cross the river at Pak Ou village for 13,000 kip per person (25,000 kip if you're the only one on the boat), walk up the hill and turn right, crossing the school grounds, to find your way to the caves. Motorcycle parking at Pak Ou village 5,000 kip. 20,000 kip. (updated Jun 2023) 16 Tad Sae Waterfalls (You must take a river boat to reach the place). Tiered waterfalls which are not as big as Kuang Si, but very beautiful. You can bathe there and elephant rides are available. 15,000 kip. 17 Kuang Si Butterfly Park. 11:00-16:00, closed Thursdays. A butterfly park near Kuang Si waterfalls. On the shuttle to the falls it will pass on the right. A short walk from the entrance to the falls. $10. (updated Jan 2024)

Do

1 Big Brother Mouse (off the main street, down a side street next to 3 Nagas Restaurant). 09:00-11:00 & 17:00-19:00 daily. A worthwhile organisation devoted to encouraging literacy in young adults and children. Depending on sponsorship and volunteers, it welcomes tourists to help with English conversation and reading practice. You can just hang out and chat with locals about whatever you like. They publish and distribute books in Lao and English. Consider buying some books to take as gifts to village children if you travel through Laos. They have another branch in Vientiane. Two, 2 hour conversation sessions per day. Lots of nice locally-written kids' story books available to buy, starting from 50 cents for their A6 size books. (updated Nov 2025) Fair Trek Project. People who love activities and treks may find some interesting interactive tours which are designed to support villages outside of Luang Prabang in the north of Laos. Hike or bike across the river in Chompet (take the ferry across the Mekong River; go to the riverside next to the national museum, where the slow boats arrive; fare is 5,000 kip). Hike or bicycle alongside the river through a few small Hmong villages and past a few temples (10,000 kip admission) and a cave. Beware the children at the temples with the ticket-takers, especially at the temple with the white stairs leading to the water opposite Luang Prabang. They will swarm over tourists' backpacks, and money will later be found missing. Enquiries to police and village officials will not be fruitful. Island map (updated May 2020) Lao Red Cross Sauna, Wisunarat Rd (In front of Wat Wisunalat). 09:00-21:00. A traditional Lao sauna and massage, very popular with locals in the afternoon. 1-hour massage 150,000 kip, massage with extra oils 180,000 kip, foot massage 150,000 kip, herbal sauna 25,000 kip (October 2025).. (updated Dec 2023) Lenou's Library, Sisavangvong Road, ☏ +856 71 254 813. A great way to experience Lao village life without a tour bus. The owner started a library and children's English tutoring centre in his house a few years ago and since has been steadily expanding services with help from volunteers. Lenou sometimes organises dinners on the Num Ou river by request and generally seems to appreciate a helping hand. Rent a motorbike. Although prices are high by regional standards, riding around the surrounding areas of Luang Prabang is a fantastic way to see the countryside. Fuel for the whole day will cost around 20,000 kip. Common practice is the rental company retains your passport, so make sure they know when you leave and how to recover your passport (or find a shop that doesn't do this). Choose the rental agency carefully, keep the motorcycle safe and take your own lock. Some rental agencies, particularly Khamsay, have been widely accused of stealing bikes after they rent them out to tourists, then demanding US$2,500 compensation from the tourist. Research rental shops thoroughly before choosing one. Motorcycle accidents are common among visitors to the area, particularly on the road to Kuang Si falls. If you are not an experienced motorcyclist in your home country, do not rent a motorcycle in Luang Prabang. US$20-25 per day. (updated Dec 2023) 2 MandaLao Elephant Conservation. The first non-riding elephant attraction in Laos. They offer three different tours (morning, afternoon, or all day) where you feed and walk elephants. A shuttle is provided from your hotel with and English guide. They seem genuinely concerned about elephant welfare and have programs to help change perceptions of elephants in Laos away from viewing them as purely beasts of burden. In the high season they do seem to book out a few weeks in advance. They do have an office in Luang Prabang. US$80-150. (updated Jan 2024) 3 Elephant Village, Sisavangvong Road (on the main road right next to the Royal Palace; there is a big elephant statue outside the office), ☏ +856 71 252 417, elephantvillagelpq@gmail.com. 09:00 - 22:00. It has 14 elephants. They are kept away from abusive work and cared by veterinarians, and seem well looked after and relaxed. Offers basic elephant rides, or 1 or 2 day mahout course where you learn the commands to control the elephant. You also get to wash the elephants in the Namkhan River which is a lot of fun. (updated Apr 2015) 4 Nava Mekong Cruises, ☏ +856 20 5928 5555, info@navamekong.com. 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00. 2 cruises on the Mekong with full meals. Pak Ou Cave cruise goes upstream, includes a visit to the "1000 Buddhas cave" (entrance fee included) and a whisky village, where passengers are given enough time to visit. Sunset cruise goes downstream, includes a traditional music and dance show. US$25-30. (updated Apr 2018) 5 Donate blood at the Lao Friends Hospital for Children. 10:00-16:00. Lao Friends Hospital is the only free children's hospital in Laos, and they are chronically short of blood donors. Among the many children in the area who receive care, the volunteers at the hospital treat over 200 children with thalassaemia, a genetic condition which requires frequent blood transfusions in severe cases. If you are able to donate blood, consider doing it here. Conditions are clean, all equipment is single-use and sterile, and you get some snacks and a t-shirt for your trouble. (updated Jan 2025)

Shopping

Thai baht and USD are widely accepted but the exchange rates vary. There are some ATMs that accept Visa, MasterCard, Maestro and Eurocards. These ATMs are mostly on Sisavangvong Rd near the end of the Night Market. The ATMs dispense currency in Lao kip, and generally allow a maximum withdrawal of 1,000,000 kip with a charge of 20,000 kip. Banque Franco-Lao allows a maximum withdrawal of 2,000,000 kip with a charge of 40,000 kip. Multiple withdrawals are allowed to a daily maximum of 5,000,000 kip. If you arrive by plane, there is an ATM and a money changer at the airport which is only open for a few hours each day. Also, their rates are significantly worse than the banks in town. Money changers/exchange For Malaysians, it is best to change ringgit to baht, then change the baht to kip in Laos. This is because they give poor rates in Laos for Malaysian ringgit. There are a number of money changers who generally do not offer good rates, and are either on Sisavangvong Rd or in the permanent markets further east. One is next to the ATM near the Night Markets, another is about 50 m further north along the street, in a small booth in front of one of the first restaurants. The rates offered may vary, so shop around before you change. Better maybe to use official money changing services at a bank which are easily found. There are reports of scams whereby money changers quote cash advance rates instead of the spot rates. They will charge you more in US dollars with a different exchange rate than posted. Even after complaining it's not possible to cancel the transaction.

1 BCEL Bank & ATM. Allows ATM withdrawal multiple times, 2M kip for only a 30k kip withdrawal fee. 2 BFL BRED (bank and money changer). Good rates for money changing. 3 Minipost Money Exchanger. 8am-8pm. Good rates for money changing.

The Night Market (on Sisavangvong Road) caters to tourists with every kind of souvenir you could want and closes at about 22:00. This region is especially talented in textile production. Particularly good are the duvet covers, cushion covers, and pillow sets. They can even make one up to your dimensions by the next day. It is well worth a look and the hawkers are very pleasant to deal with and amazingly non-pushy by the standard elsewhere in Asia. Traders range from young children to the elderly who usually make crafts, art, and goods by themselves. Good-natured bargaining is advisable, but don't obsess over this and ruin your experience as well as giving the trader a bad day. The quality and design of goods is lower in the market than in the legions of increasingly chic stores in the city. There may be some souvenirs available made from endangered animals. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea creatures, fur, feathers, teeth and other animal products. This is the best place to buy lower end souvenirs and hone your bargaining skills. The Morning Market (located on the inner road between Kitsalat Rd and the National Museum) is a street market where locals shop for fresh produce, although some tourist items have been making appearances as well. There are some eateries along the market for breakfast. The market disperses around 11:00. Make sure to ask sellers for permission if you would like to take photos of them.

Eat

There are no multi-national fast food outlets in Luang Prabang. Restaurants line Sisavangvong Rd and the roads along the Mekong and Nam Khan. Food runs the gamut from standard SE Asian backpacker fare to more traditional Lao dishes, including buffalo sausage right up to very high quality French cuisine. There are also numerous market stalls for cheaper food, including baguettes, crepes, and pancakes. Typical prices for Beerlao is 45,000 kip for a large bottle and 35,000 kip for a small, which generally are standard throughout the country. Most riverside places offer the same prices for beer and similar food, although prices for food can vary wildly. Shop around and don't be shy about asking prices if anything is unclear. Probably the most recommended food is the Lao version of fried spring roll, vegetable or pork. A speciality of Luang Prabang worth trying is khai phaen (ໄຄແຜ່ນ), made by collecting green algae from the Mekong, drying it as sheets and jazzing it up with sesame seeds, chillies, oil, etc. The end product resembles Japanese nori seaweed, and it's widely sold from street stalls, but is not meant to be eaten raw! Instead, find any bar and try it flash-fried, which transforms chewy plastic into a delicious, crispy, salty snack that goes well with beer. Other local specialities include:

Or lam (ເອາະຫຼາມ), a mild, herbal pork stew flavored with sakhaan (chili wood), which has an unusual peppery-numbing taste French baguettes and other bakery items. Generally very good. Local watercress which is very peppery. Buffalo steaks and sausages. Luang Prabang Khao Soi: spicy clear mince and noodle soup which is very different from the Chiang Mai version

Budget

Stalls along an alleyway between the night market end of Sisavangvong Rd and the Mekong offers superb Lao street food at bargain prices. Grilled salted catfish is available for 15,000 kip per fish, other types of fish for 20,000. For a somewhat spicy salad for about 10,000 kip, look for vendors with containers filled with cucumber, lime, tomato and sliced green papaya, where they will mix it on the spot with mortar and pestle. If you order barbecued meat from one of the vendors opposite the tables, they will cook it for you over the charcoal, and you can grab a seat at one of the tables to eat. The tables are quite crowded; it is easier to get a seat after 20:30 or so. The entry to the alley is by the vegan restaurant near the food stall end of the night market, near the traffic circle where the tuk-tuk touts hang out.

Drink

There are a number of places to drink around Luang Prabang, though the late-night club scene is pretty much nonexistent. The liveliest and busiest bars are in a small cluster between Mt Phousi and the Nam Khong. Luang Prabang's status means that curfews are strictly enforced here. Bars start winding down at 23:00 and close at 23:30 sharp. The only late-night options permitted are outside the main part of town, a discothèque patronised mostly by locals and bizarrely, a ten pin bowling alley. If you do plan on staying out after hours, check the arrangements with your guesthouse first to avoid being locked out. If you're simply looking to relax and enjoy the river views, most riverside restaurants have tables outside where you can sit back with a beer or two. There's even a specific Luang Prabang variant of the omnipresent BeerLao.

Books and Tea L'Etranger. Downstairs is a book shop/swap and upstairs is a bar selling drinks and cake in a room covered in cushions for lazing around and reading. Movies everyday at 19:00. A tad greedy and unfriendly on the book exchange business. Hive Bar, Phousi Rd. Closes 23:30 sharp. Established and highly popular watering hole, with cosy brick-lined rooms and an outside terrace. Notable for their ethnic fashion shows at 19:00 most days of the week and their range of Lao Lao cocktails. Morning Glory Cafe (On the quiet end of the main street, after 3 Nagas). Run by a laid-back couple. Thai and Western food. Good wine, by the glass. Garden seating. Temple in front and street life can be enjoyed. Utopia (by the Nam Khan River; follow the signs from near the Hive Bar). 08:00-23:30. Aims to be a relaxing garden by day and tropical jungle lounge by night, when it fills up with backpackers. Gorgeous views along the Nam Khan River, great venue and a laid back crowd, very popular and a good place to meet other backpackers. Free Wi-Fi. When they close everyone is pushed out into tuk-tuks headed for a bowling alley quite a way outside of town (rumored to be run by the Mafia) where the party continues. (updated Jun 2017)

Sleep

Luang Prabang has the best selection of accommodation in Laos, with something to suit every budget. There is everything from tent sites under a roof for 20,000 kip per night up to super luxury at US$1,500 per night. 300,000 kip (US$13) for a room seems to be the low end, as of late 2024. Don't expect though that the whole kit and caboodle that you can find in Vietnam or Cambodia, air-con, cable TV, Internet, can be found in LP for US$12 just near the main tourist area. Walk a bit outside of it (but not near the river), and you may find such deals even during the peak season, though. If you rent a motorbike, even better deals can be found at the city outskirts. If looking at a hotel on the road along the Mekong, know that the road will be full of idling white vans with loud and smoking guests at hours when you'd rather be asleep. While the big chains have yet to make an appearance, there's plenty of "boutique" accommodation, although this heavily overused word runs the gamut from quirky to luxury. Most of the lanes and alleys all through Luang Prabang have places to stay, with a large selection also found in the lanes south of the Post Office. Free Wi-Fi is quite common in budget guesthouses.

Budget

1 Bunthan Guesthouse (ເຮືອນພັກບຸນທັນ). Good, clean rooms with AC. The place itself is very quiet, but the roosters next to it are noisy. 120,000 kip (may be bargained down to 100,000 kip). (updated Jan 2023) Chitlathda Guesthouse. Has two wings with decent clean doubles 40,000 kip. Triple room 50,000 kip. Free Wi-Fi and water. From 40,000 kip. Cold River Guesthouse. Run by a local family. It's on the Khan River. Free filtered water and bananas are available. On Saturdays they serve a free home-cooked dinner. US$ 39. (updated Jan 2025) Levady Guesthouse (in a lovely side street 50 m off the main street.). Nice family, wooden rooms and floor, bike rentals, tidy. Double rooms with fan and private bathroom. No Wi-Fi. 250,000 kip. (updated Apr 2023) Luang Prabang Backpackers Guesthouse (next to the Nam Khan River's motorcycle/bicycle bridge (a 10-min walk away from the night market)). Clean and comfortable dorm beds (includes free breakfast and coffee). The guesthouse is run by a nice local family who, if you're lucky, will occasionally provide you with delicious Lao BBQ and Lao whisky. Free Wi-Fi, cable TV and filtered water. 40,000 kip. Wat That Guest House & Mala Dressmaker, 2/16 Wat That Rd (close to the Mekong River and a short walk to the night markets), ☏ +856 71 254859, +856 20 55671180, chanm_ph@yahoo.com. A traditional Lao-style home with 3 upstairs rooms, all with self-contained baths and a new cheap room downstairs with a shared bath. Free Wi-Fi, drinking water, and regularly bananas or other fruit. Laundry, coffee, breakfast and bicycle rental. There is a dress shop in front where you can have clothes made, repaired or altered. Dorm 100 000 kop, private room 250 000 kip. (updated Jan 2023) 2 Maniphone Guesthouse, Phu Vao rd (50 m up from Manomai rd., across the road from Flora Sanakeo hotel.). A large two-storey guesthouse, mostly empty despite near-Christmas dates and outrageous prices closer to the Night market. Rooms are a bit old but clean and large. Large common area, free water dispenser. Several restaurants and other guesthouses in the same area. 350,000 kip. (updated Dec 2024) Merry Guesthouse. Free filtered water and bananas are available. Not so merry though, the options further down the alley (Cold River and Sysomphone) are more appealing. US$3 with bath outside. (starts at 500k kip) Somjith Guesthouse, ☏ +856 71 252756, +856 20 77774883, somjithG_H@gmail.com. Clean rooms with attached or shared bathroom, fan or air-con, free Wi-Fi (but a bit unreliable), laundry service 8,000 kip/kg. From 50,000 kip. Sysomphone Guesthouse, 252-543 Banvisoun 22/4 St (off Vatmou-Enna Rd. Have the Lao Development Bank on your left, walk straight till the T-junction, turn right, then take the second left into the small street; Sysomphone is at the end). Has a good view of Nam Khan River behind the guesthouse and is around a 10 min walk to Sisavangvong Rd. Friendly and helpful family/owner. Free bananas, water, and Wi-Fi. Owner has good info, prepares a free dinner once a week for guests, has sticky rice if you stumble across dinner, collects guests' photographs in an album, and shares things he knows about the Lao people or the country if you ask. Rooms with shared hot-water bathrooms. A newer, cleaner building in the back has fresher rooms for 70,000 kip. 40,000-50,000 kip. (Absorbed by Merry post Covid, then renovated, it seems) VannaPhone Guesthouse (10 min away from the airport and about 4 min from the city). Acceptably sized rooms with fairly small bathrooms. The rooms located close to the street are noisy, but the new backrooms are OK. US$10-15. Vong Champa Guesthouse. In a small alley on the Mekong riverfront near the night market. Cheap, quiet, new and spotlessly clean. 80,000 kip. Xayana Guesthouse and X³ Capsule Hotel. Guesthouse in a Lao-style villa in the protected zone. Clean dorms with bathroom/showers inside. Movies are shown in the evening. Extra services are quite expensive: storage of valuables in a safe for 20,000 kip, laundry service 18,000 kip. There are cheaper laundry services nearby. Dorms from USD4 or 30,000 kip, rooms from US$8.

Mid-range

Kamu Lodge (in a remote location on the Mekong River N of Luang Prabang). This lodge is in an ethnic Kamu village. It purports to offer a sustainable and socially responsible tourism concept. Lao Lu Lodge, Ban Pakham (in a small street 50 m from the Mekong, slightly E of Kitsalat Rd). A rather nice accommodation with a quiet courtyard, close to both the Mekong and the night market. Air-con, hot water, 24/7 free tea and drink water, free Wi-Fi. They offer limited possibilities to buy tickets to other cities. Be aware that the rooms on the ground floor have virtually no daylight. Around 200,000 kip depending on the room. Manichan Guesthouse (near the Night Market). Centrally located, new and clean in green, peaceful environment. "Lao-colonial" -style house with wooden floors and homey feel rooms. Private and shared baths with hot, separate showers. Free coffee corner. Has a balcony with city view. Belgian-Lao management. Air-con an optional extra US$4. Low season: US$7–15, high season: US$12–30 (including breakfast buffet). Merry Swiss Lao. Near Mt Phousi, not on the main street side, but the other side. Rooms have private bath and air conditioning. US$40. Phasith Guesthouse, Chaosisouphan Rd (between Mt Phousi & Nam Kham River, facing back stairs/entrance of Mt Phousi), ☏ +856 71 260420, kolawy@hotmail.com. Local family-run guesthouse in a well-kept restored old building. Central location. The nicely decorated clean rooms have en suite baths with either balconies or gardens attached. Free Wi-Fi, bottled water, bananas provided. Family is friendly and invites guests to join them when they make family trips to local attractions. Rama Hotel. Higher-end guesthouse. Hot water shower and air con. This hotel is quiet with a little traffic noise until about 23:00. US$30 including a decent breakfast.. Sabaidee Guesthouse, 70 Thammikarat Rd. There are lots of good guesthouses along here. This one is good value for a double en suite room with breakfast included. There's a good laundrette just opposite the entrance. US$25. Tha Heua Me Guest House, Souliyavongsa Road, Khem Khong (City centre), ☏ +856 20 55 080 903, noyna_5554@hotmail.com. Family guesthouse close to the main attractions. Each morning at dawn, the orange-dressed Buddhist monks walk just a few metres away from the terrace for the alms-giving ceremony. Thony 1 Guesthouse, Ban Visoun, Chao Chomphou Rd (head for Wat Visoun which is very close by; from the temple just look towards the Nam Khan River and you will see the guesthouse), thony1@laotel.com. This converted family villa is on the bank of the Nam Khan River. Only 10 min walk to the night market and historic centre. Rooms with riverview & family rooms available. US$22-35. Villa Kiengkham (Near the Rama Hotel). Nice, clean, comfortable hotel with friendly staff. US$25. Villa Meung Lao. Guesthouse in the city centre, close to the Royal Palace and the morning market. Rooms offer air-con, TV, Wi-Fi (unreliable) and free water. US$25-30. Hillside - Nature Lifestyle Lodge, ☏ +856 20 58777038, hillsidelaos@gmail.com. Surrounded by protected area, mountains and pristine forests. 12 km from Luang Prabang. Guided and self-guided walks to waterfalls and ethnic villages. Mountain bikes available. Has a very nice swimming pool. Charming double and twin bungalows in the tropical garden, and a family bungalow. Organic garden, restaurant with homemade food. US$55-65.

Stay safe

Scooter accidents are common amongst tourists in Luang Prabang. Do not rent a scooter here if you are not experienced. The road to the Kuang Si falls is especially dangerous due to the deep pot-holes filled with loose material, sand on the road, and speeding drivers of tourist vans. Even if you're used to motorcycling in flat areas, remember that bikes with automatic transmissions can often stall out or freeze up when trying to deal with some of the more extreme hills in Luang Prabang's environs. 3 Luang Prabang Provincial Hospital, ☏ +85671254027. 24/7. (updated Feb 2025) If you come down with a serious illness or injury, your best bet would be to fly directly to Bangkok and seek medical treatment there.

Go next

Huay Xai — for those departing by boat to Thailand this is the necessary stopover Vang Vieng — the next stop on the backpacker circuit for many younger travellers. The road to Vang Vieng is very bad, so taking the train is recommended. Phonsavan - starting point for Plain of Jars UNESCO world heritage sites For a more serene experience: Nong Khiaw — to the north Muang Ngoi Neua Vientiane Hanoi — if you're heading to Vietnam and you're staying in a Vietnamese-run hotel, ask them to exchange money into dong for you. They ought to give you a good rate. Nong Khiaw

More pictures of Luang Prabang

From this destination's category on Wikimedia Commons. Each photograph is credited to its own author under its own licence.