Chiang Mai

Understand

With a population of over 127,000 registered residents in the city municipality (as of 2016), and 1.2 million in the urban city area as of 2022, it is Thailand's second-largest city. Founded in 1296 CE, Chiang Mai is a culturally and historically interesting city, at one time the capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. In the rolling foothills of the Himalayas 700 km north of Bangkok, until the 1920s it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant trek. This isolation helped preserve Chiang Mai's distinctive charm, which remains intact. Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city ("city" is chiang in the northern Thai dialect while mai is "new", hence Chiang Mai translates as "new city"). Sections of the wall dating to their restoration a few decades ago remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains. Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away. Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east to the banks of the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Changklan Rd, the famous Night Bazaar, and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guest houses are located. Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคราะห์) is the centre of the city's (tourist) night life. Locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang. Of course this is touristic blather, but kao soi, Bo Sang umbrellas and Doi Suthep are important cultural icons for the locals.

Orientation

Chiang Mai's most salient physical feature is the moat and the remains of the wall surrounding the old city. About 6.5 km in circumference, it is the reference point for navigating around the city. The east and west halves of the old city each have their own character. The east side has the highest concentration of guesthouses, restaurants, motorbike rental shops, travel agencies, and other tourist-oriented services. In particular, the northeast corner is a warren of guesthouses, restaurants, massage parlours, and other businesses catering to visitors. The western half is more Thai, with a school for the blind, a coffin shop, the Chiang Mai branch of Thailand's National Library and five or six mostly table-top barbecue restaurants (หมูกระทะ mǔu grà~​tá) almost always packed with Thai customers. Clockwise from 12 o'clock (north), the main features of the moat and its environs areː

1 Chang Phuak Gate (ประตูช้างเผือก, North Gate) (at the centre of the North moat). Built by King Mangrai c.1296. Formerly known as Hua Wiang ("head of the city") Gate as it was considered the most important. King Saen Muang Ma (1365-1401) built an albino elephant (cháang-pʉ̀ʉak ช้างเผือก) monument outside the gate during his reign. The name of the gate then changed gradually to reflect its presence. Traditionally, kings-to-be entered the city through this gate on the way to their coronations. Taking the road north from here takes one to the intra-provincial bus station, also named Chang Phuak, then onward to Mae Rim, Pai, Chiang Rai and the Lao border. (updated Feb 2024) 2 Si Phum Corner (แจ่งศรีภูมิ) (NE moat corner). Taking the left turn at this point takes one to the superhighway. Straight on leads to a bridge over the Ping River and beyond it, the rail and bus stations. Turning right (south) parallels the eastern boundary of the moat. (updated Feb 2024) 3 Tha Phae Gate (ประตูท่าแพ, East Gate) (at the centre of the East moat). Built c.1296 as Chiang Ruak Gate after a nearby village. "Tha Phae" means "raft landing". There used to be an outer Tha Phae on the river and this gate, the inner Tha Phae. When the raft landing was supplanted by a bridge, this became the Tha Phae Gate. Rebuilt 1985-1986. The vicinity is by far the area most useful to visitors as it contains the greatest number of tourist services. The Night Bazaar lies due east, about a 15-min walk. There always seems to be something going on in the plaza adjacent to the gate. Every Sunday a Walking Street Market originates here. (updated Feb 2024) 4 Katam Corner (แจ่งก็ะตำ) (SE moat corner). A "katam" was a "fishtrap". Water flowing into the city from the Hua Lin corner (NW) of the city collected near this corner in a large pond full of fish. The corner took on the name of the tool used to catch the fish. Turning left here leads to the River Ping. (updated Feb 2024) 5 Chiang Mai Gate (ประตูเชียงใหม่) (at the S moat, 400 m from the SE moat corner). Built c.1296 at the founding of the city by King Mangrai. Traditionally the start of the road south to Lamphun. Reconstructed c.1800. Rebuilt 1966-1969. Nearby is the Chiang Mai (fresh) Market, selling foodstuffs. Adjacent are many food stalls, which are popular throughout the day and especially evening. Across the street on Wualai Road to the south is a Walking Street Market every Saturday. (updated Feb 2024) 6 Saen Pung Gate (ประตูแสนปุง) (at the S moat, 400 m from the SW moat corner). First mentioned in historical records about 1545. Traditionally used to transport the dead out of the city to crematoria outside the city proper. (updated Feb 2024) 7 Ku Huang Corner (แจ่งกู่เฮีอง) (SW moat corner). Refers to a stupa "kuu" containing the ashes of a person named "Huang". Rebuilt c. 1800. Turning left here leads to the Airport Plaza Shopping Centre and the airport. (updated Feb 2024) 8 Suan Dok Gate (ประตูสวนดอก, West Gate) (at the centre of the West moat). On the sign, misspelled in English as "saun dok". Little in the vicinity of interest to visitors. Outside this gate is Suthep Road, which leads to Wat Suan Dok, Chiang Mai University, and more. (updated Feb 2024) 9 Hua Lin Corner (แจ่งหัวลิน) (NW moat corner). "Hua" means "head" and "lin" means "aqueduct". At this corner the small brook, Hûuai Kaeo, was lifted over the city's rampart to provide fresh water to the settlement. Turning left here leads to the Nimmanhaemin District, Chiang Mai University, Maya Mall, and onward to Doi Suthep. (updated Feb 2024)

Getting there

By plane

1 Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX IATA). Handles both domestic and regional international flights. The airport is situated really close to the city, just 3 km southwest of the city centre, 10–15 minutes away by car.

Taxis

Registered airport taxis charge a flat 150 baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city. Grab charges the same flat fare if going from/to the airport, but rates in Bolt can be noticeably lower, under 100 baht. If you take a metered taxi, there is a starting fee plus a service fee from the Meter Taxi counter. The taxis operate close to the car park not far from the exit at the north end of the terminal. If you arrived solo and has no luggage, you can also order a motorbike taxi, but you will not find the option to call one in Grab app (which you can get used to in Bangkok, for example), but this moto-taxi option will be available in Bolt, will cost around 40 baht to get to city center.

Shuttle bus

The airport also has a shuttle minibus service available, offering drop-off to any hotel in the city for a flat fee of 50 baht (October 2025) - perfect if you are solo of a couple and you don't mind waiting 10-15 minutes for a few fellow passengers. But it can happen that this bus doesn't work at all, as it was from 1-31 June of 2026. The minibus counter is at the southern end of the terminal, near the International arrivals.

Getting around

By bus

Chiang Mai has a limited bus service, not without the opposition of the songhthaew (see below) and tuk tuk drivers. The RTC Chiang Mai City Bus follows just a few routes so far, but they quite fit the average traveler's needs, including from/to the airport, and are air-conditioned. The ticket is 20 baht, pay in cash to the driver or else Rabbit card from Bangkok is also accepted. For those wishing to travel really hard, there's a Tourist card - 180 baht per day or 400 baht per 3 days unlimited trips.

By songthaew

The traditional way of getting around the city is by songthaew (สองแถว) which serve as buses and taxis. These covered pick-up trucks have two long bench seats in the back (songthaew means "two rows" in Thai), the seats are shared by multiple passengers and the songthaews stop en route to pick up other passengers who are going the same way. The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common by far are red songthaews (called rot daeng, red truck), which don't follow a specific route and roam the main streets around markets, temples, or the bus/train stations. These are the most convenient to take if you are going somewhere specific. Prices are fixed to 30 baht inside the city walls but the price must be negotiated outside the city walls, but expect to pay upwards of 40 baht outside. During peak season these prices can increase to 40 baht within the city walls and up to 200 baht outside - again, that's how much a tourist would pay. Because of the city's somewhat irrational road design, especially inside the old walls, the driver may be forced to take a circuitous route to get to a nearby destination, but it will make no difference to the fare. Since mid 2017 songthaews have a sign stating "30 baht pp" above the windows of the car. However this is not a translation of the entire Thai text. It turns out to be the maximum, when reading the entire line. A second line, that is below the windows, gives the area for this tariffs: within the 2nd ringroad. Keep this in mind when you have to negotiate.

To catch a songthaew approach a waiting driver or flag one down on the street, state your destination and if the driver is going that direction he will nod in agreement and give you a price. Negotiate a lower fare if you wish. The price agreed to should be per person. It's a good idea to confirm this with the driver before you leave. On reaching your destination, ring the buzzer on the roof to tell the driver to stop. The driver will pull over, wait for you to get out and pay. Songthaews not orbiting on a fixed-route can be hired outright, just as if they were a taxi. Negotiate a price before departure.

See

Gardens and nature

1 Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (about 800 m north of the Holiday Inn, east side of the Ping River). A place of history and remembrance. A statue of Queen Victoria is overlooking the place. 2 Chiang Mai Zoo & Aquarium, 100 Huay Kaew Rd (at the foot of Doi Suthep), ☏ +66 53-893111. Daily 09:00-17:00. A large park with over 400 species of animals, extremely popular with Thai tourists, and long queues may be encountered during Thai holidays. While better than some zoos, many animals are nevertheless kept in small enclosures. The zoo operates a dual pricing system wherein non-Thais are charged approximately double the price of Thai nationals. Additional charges are applied for the aquarium. Many of the animals can be fed for a charge of 10 or 20 baht. The park is pretty large, and expect plenty of hills if you want to walk the complete route, so taking the "tram," which is an open-air cart, is a faster and more convenient way to get around, though the last tram starts at 16:30. It's possible to drive through with your car, and there are parking spots next to the animal exhibits. If you have a rental scooter or bike, definitely bring it though. The zoo closes at 17:00, but many visitors wander to the exit gate well past closing time. Zoo Ticket 350 baht for adults, 120 baht for children; Aquarium Ticket 450 baht for adults, 350 baht for children; as of December 2025 Panda House Tickets are not available. 3 Bhubing Palace (Phu Ping Palace, Royal Winter Palace), Suthep (on Rte 1004, beyond Doi Suthep). Daily 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public. Dress code strictly applied: dress modestly or pay 15 baht for fisherman's pants to cover your lack of it. This includes any leg above the ankle for either gender. The palace (built in 1961) is not particularly exciting, but the extensive gardens are picturesque with some amazing plant life, including carefully tended tropical flowers, centuries-old trees and giant bamboo. A sign at the bottom of the hill near the zoo indicates when it's closed. It is close to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, so travel directions are similar. 50 baht, children 10 baht.

4 Doi Suthep (from the NW corner of the old town, a straight road of about 3.5 km begins, which then turns into a winding road of about 18.5 km to the top of this mountain). A ride for the temples and sunset to Doi Suthep is a rewarding trip with great views of the city. Most tourists will end up at Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, but there are several other attractions you may want to consider visiting, besides of course the mountain itself. 4½ km further along the road from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep are the Bhubing Royal Palace Gardens (see before). Here you will also find a great sunset viewpoint, 500 m downhill on the other side of the road. Further along this road is Doi Pui Tribal Village, and although tourist-oriented, is really worth the trip. There are many shops for local handicrafts, etc. These are the people from the far north of the country, many originally from Myanmar. There are two areas in the village that require entrance fee: 10 baht to enter a flower garden (where women can take pictures using traditional clothes) and a hill tribe opium museum (the museum is in a very poor condition); and 10 baht to enter the hill tribe waterfall (man-made). As of December 2025 many places in the National Park have an entrance fee of 100 baht that used to have no entrance fee. (updated Dec 2025) Getting there and away: Clearly marked songthaews leave from the 7-eleven at the Chang Phuak Gate. Most only go until Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, where the majority of tourists ends up. Prices should be 80 baht or less as of 2025. The drivers will wait until they have sufficient passengers (5 or more) before they depart, potentially making for a lengthy wait. The driver may offer to leave without the minimum number of people if the current passengers are willing to pay extra. Another option is to get to the northern gate of Chiang Mai University, where there will be several songthaews waiting on Huai Kaew Rd to get a full load of passengers for a trip up the mountain. They seem to congregate around the Chiang Mai Zoo. However, instead of waiting for additional passenger here, you can also just hail any songthaew going by and up the mountain. Prices range from 50 baht for a one-way trip to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep to 180 baht for a full round-trip tour, including the temple, Bhubing Palace Gardens, and the hill tribe village. But you may have to wait until there are sufficient people, who want the same tour or be prepared to pay more. You can also get between many of these places by hitch-hiking, by walking or by buying point-to-point tickets at the time you want them. Any songthaew up the mountain road may be a trial for those prone to motion-sickness, so take appropriate precautions. The journey from the city can also be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if cycling.

Museums

5 Chiang Mai Historical Centre (หอประวัติศาสตร์เมืองเชียงใหม่), Prapokklao Rd (between Ratchadamnoen Rd and Ratchawithi Rd), ☏ +66 53-217793. Tu-Su 08:30–17:00. This modern multimedia history and cultural education centre has guides dressed in elegant traditional Thai clothing who will usher you into an air-conditioned room to watch an English-subtitled orientation video about Chiang Mai and the north. Next, you will be pointed to a series of rooms documenting the region's history and culture in chronological order from the pre-Muang period (7,000-12,000 years ago) to the early river civilizations, to the early kings through the wars with the Burmese and the last dynasty, to the city today and its plans for the future. Other rooms are devoted to Buddhism and other regional beliefs, agricultural history, hill tribe peoples and other regional cultures, and a run-down of the royal dynasties. The exhibits consist of a smart visual mix of video, scale models, enlarged photos, wall murals and text in Thai and English. This complex also shared with the Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre 90 baht. (updated Dec 2024) 6 Chiang Mai National Museum, on the superhighway (near Wat Chet Yot), ☏ +66 53-221308. W-Su 09:00–16:00. The history of Chiang Mai. 100 baht. 7 Chiang Mai University Art Museum, corner Suthep and Nimmanhaemin Rd, ☏ +66 53-944833. Tu-Su 09:00–17:00. There are exhibitions by undergraduates from the Fine Arts Department at Chiang Mai University. These change often and the work on display is of high quality. Each month there is usually at least one art exhibition featuring the works of artists from Southeast Asia. The museum also hosts musical concerts, often free, in the adjoining theatre. Free. 8 Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders, Soi 13, Nimmanhaemin Rd, ☏ +66 53-211891. Daily 09:00–17:00. One of Asia's most unusual museums housing butterflies, beetles, etc. Also has a large selection of minerals. Some explanations in English, some in Thai. 200 baht. 9 Chiang Mai Philatelic Museum, Praisanee Rd (close to the post office), ☏ +66 53 251 200. Tu-Su 08:30–16:30. Museum of stamps and postal related objects. Free. 10 Northern Telecoms of Thailand Museum, ☏ +66 53 252 168. M-F 08:30–16:30. History and evolution of the telecommunications service technology. (updated Dec 2025) 11 The Highland People Discovery Museum (Former name: Tribal Museum) (behind the Rama IX Lanna Park at the road to Mae Rim). M-F 08:30-12:00 and 13:00-16:00. The museum is located on a little peninsula in a big pond. There is also an open air part to the museum at 300 m from the main building, where you find houses in the styles of the tribes. There is also a shop selling clothes, bags, and other high hill tribe products. (updated Aug 2025) 12 Lanna Traditional House Museum (CMULHM), 239 ถ. ห้วยแก้ว Suthep, ☏ +66 53943625. Tu-Su 08:30-16:30. traditional wooden houses of the northern Thai region and Lanna culture. 100 baht. (updated Aug 2024) 13 The Treasury Museum Chiang Mai (พิพิธภัณฑ์ธนารักษ์ จังหวัดเชียงใหม่), 52 Rachadamnoen Rd, Tambon Si Phum, ☏ +66 53224237. Tu-F 09:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00; Sa Su 10:00-12:00, 13:00-18:00. One of two money museums in Thailand, focused on northern Thailand, run by government treasury department, in a heritage building. It is small: plan 1 hr to see, need to take off shoes. Free. (updated Aug 2024) 14 Kalm Village, ☏ +66 933209809. Community culture space that often hosts workshops like mini loom weaving or meditation. Free. (updated Oct 2024) 15 Lanna Architecture Center (Khum Museum). Located in the Khum Chao Burirat Mahain Building, a two storey house as an example of the western influence on native architecture in early Chiang Mai times, there are videos, photos, and models about traditional Thai buildings. You can also buy postcards, pencils, and tees about Khum Chao Burirat there. There are several stamps of Thai building pictures to stamp on your booklet. 120 baht (foreigner), 60 baht (Thailand resident). (updated Sep 2025)

Do

The most important festivals

Chiang Mai Flower Festival. It is a three day festival staged every year starting the first Friday in February (in 2026, due to elections one week later). The city is awash with vibrant colours ranging from the electric orange and lilac colours of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white, and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Year, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North". On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Nong Buak Had Park near the city centre. Many types of flower, miniature trees and orchida are put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers. The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Nawarat Bridge so the police close most of Charoen Muang Rd around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes up Tha Phae Rd to the gate and turns left and follows the moat to Nong Buak Had Park. The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hill tribe people in native costume. The paraders hand out roses to spectators lining the road. When the parade finishes everyone heads to Nong Buak Had where all the floats, award-winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen. This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.

Songkran Festival (Thai Water Festival / สงกรานต์) (all around the city). The Thai Water Festival is one of the biggest events in Thailand. Songkran is not only a time for fun but also a period for spiritual renewal. It is deeply rooted in Thai culture and has been recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage. The festival blends ancient customs with modern-day celebrations, making it a unique experience for both locals and tourists. It is celebrated as the Thai new year from 13-15 Apr (though it may begin a day or two early). The most obvious sign that you're in the middle of the festival is when you get soaked by someone pouring a bucket of water over you, or squirting you with a water gun. This tradition evolved from people tossing water that had been poured over holy statues, since this water was expected to be good luck. Now, it takes the form of a free-for-all water fight, and you will undoubtedly be drenched. Beware of the ice-cold splashes used by many from their big barrels of water filled with several ice blocks. It's also a way of staying cool during the very hot and humid month of April. Put your mobile phone in a plastic bag.

Loi Krathong and Yi Peng Festivals (ลอยกระทง). If you like candles placed in colourful paper lanterns, fireworks, beautiful girls in traditional dress, parade floats, lots of food and parties. Don't miss the Loi Krathong festival, which in Chiang Mai lasts for 3 full days, the last night being that of the 12th full moon of the year (which is usually in Nov). In the small town of Mae Jo, north of Chiang Mai, they start the festival on Saturday night by simultaneously launching thousands upon thousands of hot air balloons called khom loi. Loi Krathong coincides with the northern Thai (Lanna) festival known as "Yi Peng" (ยี่เป็ง). Due to a difference between the old Lanna calendar and the Thai calendar, Yi Peng is held on a full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna calendar ("Yi" meaning "2nd" and "Peng" meaning "month" in the Lanna language). A multitude of Lanna-style sky lanterns (khom loi (โคมลอย), literally: "floating lanterns") are launched into the air where they drift with the winds. The festival is meant as a time for "tam-bun" (ทำบุญ), to make merit. People decorate their houses, gardens, and temples with khom fai (โคมไฟ): intricately shaped paper lanterns which take on different forms. Khom thue (โคมถือ) are lanterns which are carried around hanging from a stick, khom khwaen (โคมแขวน) are the hanging lanterns, and khom pariwat (โคมปริวรรต) which are placed at temples and which revolve due to the heat of the candle inside. Chiang Mai has the most elaborate Yi Peng celebrations, where both Loi Krathong and Yi Peng are celebrated at the same time resulting in lights floating on the waters, lights hanging from trees/buildings or standing on walls, and lights floating by in the sky.

Shopping

Chiang Mai is a great place to shop. Sprawling markets during the day and night carry items from cheap trinkets to skillfully made local crafts.

Books

1 The Lost Book Shop, Ratchamanka Rd, ☏ +66 53 206 656. 08:00-18:00 daily. Large collection of used books. Fiction and non-fiction. (updated Mar 2024) 2 Suriwong Book Centre (สุริวงค์บุคเชนเตอว์) (Two blocks west of Chang Khlan Rd (Night Bazaar)). Essentially two shops: a magazine shop open from 08:00-20:00 and the main, large book/stationery shop open from 10:00-19:00. Good selection of Western language titles, and wide variety of Thai titles, as well as office supplies. Pleasant ambience. (updated Oct 2022) 3 On The Road Books, 34/3 Ratvithi Road. 09:00-21:00 daily. Small bookstore with a nice selection of used books.

Groceries

4 Rimping Supermarkets (ริมปิงซุปเปอร์มาร์เก็ต), 129 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (Chang Moi Rd E to Kad Luang, take a right, S to the Nawarat Bridge (Thapae Rd); cross the bridge and take a righ; drive 1 block S past the Iron bridge, Rimping on the left), ☏ +66 53-246333-4. Daily 08:00-21:00. If you want Western foodstuffs like good bread, pickles, charcuterie, etc., pickings are slim in the vicinity of the Old City. 9 locations in the Chiang Mai area, map on the website. It's comparatively expensive, but they're one of the few supermarkets that sell western groceries. 5 Tops Supermarkets, ☏ +66 53 224953. Daily, 09:00-21:00. National chain of supermarkets. Good selection of Western foods, including good bread, cheese, wine and beer. There are five Tops locations in the Chiang Mai area, the closest to the old city is behind the Mercure hotel on Chang Phueak Rd. 6 Kasem Store, 19 Ratchawong Road, Muang, Chiang Mai, ☏ +66 53 234 986. A small store a few doors up from Chang Moi Road, situated near but not in Warowot market (to the east of the walled city and just before the Ping River). Has those difficult to get items such as real powdered milk, black loose leafed tea, assorted good cereals, assorted pastries, etc. Has a good assortment of foreign goods including vegetarian and vegan food. Good English spoken. (updated Mar 2018)

Eat

Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth, traditionally served with chicken (kai) or beef (nuea), but available some places as vegetarian or with seafood. Another local specialty is hang ley, Lanna-style pork curry. The area is also a home to a type of pork sausage called sai ua, which is favoured using chilli and various Thai herbs such as lemongrass, galangal and Kaffir lime. For those tired of eating rice or noodles there's also a wide range of excellent international food restaurants, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate Italian restaurants. When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a khantoke dinner and show. Although these are just for tourists it is still a nice way to spend an evening. The first khantoke dinner was held in 1953 by Professor Kraisi Nimanhemin who wanted to host a special event for 2 friends leaving Chiang Mai. Two more such dinners were held, both in 1953, thus "khantoke" dinners are not "historic", but rather a relatively recent invention. Khantoke literally means small bowl, low table (khan = small bowl. tok = low table) There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting. The range and value of Western food in Chiang Mai is unsurpassed in Northern Thailand and there is a full range of restaurants from Australian/British/Irish, through French and German to Italian, Spanish, American and Mexican. Considering how remote Chiang Mai is from the major centres of population in Asia, there are a remarkable number of Western restaurants. It can be hard to find strictly vegetarian food in Chiang Mai, as fish and oyster sauce are used frequently, and the local Buddhist monks themselves often eat fish. Thus, asking for your dish to be prepared "like the monks", which works in other places, does not get the same results in Chiang Mai. There are a few completely vegetarian options.

Food markets & roadside stalls

1 Anusarn Market (ตลาดอนุสาร), Changklan Rd (side of road opposite Night Bazaar Building, further down the street). A busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai, Indian and Western restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere. (updated Feb 2023) 2 Kalare Food Centre, Changklan Rd (Opposite the Night Bazaar Building). 17:00-22:00. Has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with pre-purchased coupons. (updated Feb 2023) 3 Suthep Road Moveable Feast (Past Canal Rd, by the university). Daily 17:00-22:00. Dozens of food carts set up every evening around from around 17:00 until about 22:00, with a huge variety of very inexpensive food, and tables set up along the pavement.

Thai

4 Lim Lao Ngow Fishball Noodle (ลิ้มเหล่าโหงว), 53/2 ถนนข้างเรือนจำ, ☏ +6653327304. Daily 09:00-14:30. Egg noodle and fishballs. Besides common egg noodle, they also offer a flat shape egg node using double proportion of eggs and Hong Kong style flour. Their original branch in Yaowarach (China Town in Bangkok) was listed as Bib Gourmand in Michaelin Guide Bangko. (updated Sep 2025) 5 Koleang Boat Noodle, Moon Muang Rd (near Ratchamanka Rd (inside moat); English sign on sidewalk). Serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). It's good stuff. (updated Feb 2023) 6 Lemontree, 26/1-2 Huaykaew Rd, ☏ +66 53 222 009. (updated Feb 2023) 7 Sailomjoy Restaurant, 7 Rachadamnoen Rd (Near Tha Phae Gate (inside moat)). Daily, 07:30-16:00. Delicious food (Thai, Western and vegetarian), friendly service and simple and relaxed atmosphere. (updated Feb 2023)

Drink

Chiang Mai's nightlife is the most happening in the north, although still a far cry from Bangkok's hot spots. The busiest night life zones are near Tha Phae Gate, Loi Kroh Rd and along Charoen Rat Rd on the east bank of the Ping River.

Coffee

Chiang Mai is one of the top destinations for coffee tourism in Asia, and attracts visitors from many countries.

1 Akha Ama, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 9 (NE corner of the old city). 08:00-17:00, closed W. Moved to this new location from the Santitham area. 2 Akha Ama Phrasingh, 175/2 Ratchadamnoen Rd (inside moat, near Wat Phra Sing). 08:00-17:30. Now next door at a bigger location, having two floors. 3 Chapter 2W0, 90 Thapae Road, ☏ +66 90 323 4991, Pratchayatoo@gmail.com. Daily 06:00-17:00. A gem of a cafe set in a sprawling garden. Excellent coffee and juice concoctions. Mouthwatering breads and desserts. 4 Cool Muang, Moon Muang Road 81, ☏ +66 8 9756 4321. Using 100% Thai Arabica coffee beans. 5 J. Ju Coffee, 52 Ratchamanka Rd. Run by "Oil", this little place has excellent espresso-based drinks, free Wi-Fi, or ten minutes on the computer with your coffee. Very modern design; seating in the front is open-air while the back is air conditioned. Oil speaks excellent English and is happy to give you the low-down. 6 Ristr8to, 15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd (between Soi 3 and Soi 5). 08:00-23:00. A trendy art cafe featuring an award-winning barista (world champion latte art 2017), choices of single-origin beans and a varied drink menu. Very friendly atmosphere at much higher standard than is normally seen in Thailand. 89 baht for a doppio ristretto. 7 Sky Café, ☏ +66 86 587 4575. Nice situation on a busy road with across that road a pond where often horses are bathed around 11:00. Espresso is brewed very well, using good coffee beans. (updated Dec 2018) 8 The Baristro Coffee Roaster, 78 Pa Tan Alley (along the river, 850 m north of highway 11), ☏ +66 98 259 7926. 08:00-18:00. Small local chain of coffee places, this one is at the river with garden seats direct at the river. See their website for the other locations. (updated Dec 2024)

Sleep

Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap, even by Thai standards. All types of lodging are available from inexpensive guest-houses with little or no service to the typical high rise hotels and elaborate garden resorts. The latest boom is Thai-style boutique resorts located near the old city centre — several have been built since mid-2005, and offer excellent service in quiet garden settings; most are fairly small with as few as 8 rooms and a pool, and are decorated with Thai crafts and antiques. Evenings in Chiang Mai are cooler than Bangkok and the south during the dry season, so air conditioning may be less of a priority. Some of the cheapest accommodation may refuse guests who are not also booking a trekking package. If so, please remove them from Wikivoyage.

Budget

1 2230 Hostel, Nimmanhaemin Rd Soi 1, ☏ +66 52 003 831. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. This hostel doubles as a local bar. Free coffee at any time of the day or night. Complimentary use of the washing machine and kitchen. Nineteen rooms that can house 38. Two showers and three toilets are located on each of the five floors. Rooms contain two pod-style bunkbeds. (updated May 2015) 2 7 Century Guest House, 270 Ratchaphakhinai Rd, ☏ +66 53-287541, +66 81-4388175, le7century.guesthouse@hotmail.com. Check-out: 12:00. Guest house that is a bit worn. Singles can be a bit mouldy due to poor drainage and ventilation. Good hot shower (private for single rooms, shared for double and triple). Terrace. Free Wi-Fi. If they have a laptop free you can borrow it to take to your room. Fan in rooms. Kitchen free to use. Soft beds. Service also available in German. Help with booking trips, treks, motorbikes and other things. Friendly staff. 3 Baan Na Na, 11/2 Rachapakeenai Rd, ☏ +66 53 274 267. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Small and simple guest house attached to the back of a pleasant but moderately priced cafe and restaurant. Friendly staff, shared basic Western bathrooms with warm shower, shared with cafe so can get heavy use at peak times. Good Wi-Fi in rooms. Fan dorm 100 baht, air-con dorm 150 baht, double fan room 200 baht, double air-con room 350 baht. 100-350 baht. (updated Nov 2015) 4 B.R. Hotel, Morakot Rd (Northwest corner of the moat, from where Huay Kaew Rd turns to the left, drive straight (north) 700 m, turn left on Morakot Rd and you'll see the sign on the right side), ☏ +66 53-220061. Check-out: 12:00. Simple, but cosy Thai hotel. Fan rooms are often sold out, however an air-con room with TV and small balcony is an excellent value during hot or wet season. No Wi-Fi (but Truemove 850 MHz 3G works perfectly). While the hotel is not far from the centre, the closest place where you can catch a public songthaew (near Kad Suan Kaew Mall) is almost 1 km away, so the place is better suited for those who rent a motorbike. Free parking. On the nearby intersection with Hasadhisawee Rd, there are numerous and cheap food stalls in the evening. Hotel staff generally do not speak English. If no vacancy, there's Inthanon Hotel next on the same road. 5 Bed and Terrace Guest House, 10 Kotchasarn Rd, Soi 5, ☏ +66 53-449708, service@bedandterrace.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:30. Thai modern-style guest house with terrace, comfortable rooms with double windows overlook a mountain panorama. 6 Bunchun Art Hostel, 31/5 soi sriwichai, ☏ +66 83 0723121 (mobile), bunchunhostels@gmail.com. Check-in: 09:00, check-out: 11:00. A great chill-out art hostel, a place to meet new friends other travelers and local Thais. Lots of little dogs and chickens. Wifi. 2 private rooms, 3 mixed dorms. 100 baht for dorms, 400 baht for privates. 100 baht. (updated Oct 2017) 7 FWD House Hostel (Box dorm with 10 single beds), 78 Ratchamanka Rd (4.3 km from the airport, 4.5 km from the train station, 5 km from the bus station), ☏ +66 82-6233349, forwardhouse.th@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:00. A 10-minute walk to the temples and Loi Kroh Rd, and a minute walk to the Sunday night market. Owner and staff are welcoming, friendly, can cater to your personal needs, and also make you feel at home. 8 Giant Guest House 1 & 2, 24/1 Moon Muang Rd (Giant 1); 4 Rachamanka Rd (Giant 2) (map position is of Giant 1), ☏ +66 87-1821611, giantguesthouse@gmail.com. Check-out: 12:00. Two guest houses. Cheap basic rooms, hot showers, free Wi-Fi, free shared computer, free bicycles, free water, reggae bar attached (Freedom Bar 16:00-24:00). Can book everything here and sightsee by bicycle. Kitchen with cooking lessons available and massage school 200 m away. Watch out for the 300 baht room "switch" after they pick you up in the airport. They will give you this price in front of the guesthouse. (updated Oct 2022) 9 Hollanda Montri Guest House, 365 Charoen Rat Rd, ☏ +66 53-242450. Family-style guesthouse, fan or air-con rooms, and with a tropical garden on the banks of the Mae Ping River. 10 Linda Guesthouse, 456/67 Soi Banditpatana (close to the railway station, follow the sign at Charoen Muang Rd), ☏ +66 53-246915, fax: +66 53-246915, lindaguesthouse@hotmail.com. East of Tha Phae Gate, easily accessible on songthaew routes. Very clean rooms. The guest house also offers many trekking tours. The staff speak German, English and Thai. Family-like atmosphere. Cheap and very good food around the clock, freshly made. 11 A Little Bird Guesthouse, 17 Soi 1 Ratvithi Rd, ☏ +66 53-289577, alittlebird_cm@hotmail.com. Check-out: 12:00. Cheap basic dorms with hot shower and free Wi-Fi. An easy place to meet people in a good location. 12 Mint House, 80-82 Prapokklao (Soi 5) (near Chiang Mai Gate), ☏ +66 86-2531743. Really friendly and helpful staff. Centrally located, clean and good prices for dorms and rooms. Rooms have dedicated bathrooms that, strangely, are not en suite, but all across the hallway. Keep an eye out for room rates changing after you've already checked-in. Don't be a wimp when this happens. 13 Ping River Inn, ☏ +66 81-9935187, ping.river.inn@hotmail.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A basic but clean inn along the Ping River near Nakorn Ping Bridge and the yellow songthaew route. Hot showers, two bottles of free drinking water, towels, roof access, cable, and free Wi-Fi. If the foot bridge over the river ever gets fixed, the Ping River Inn will be within five minutes walking distance of Warorot Market. 14 Riders Corner (Rider's Corner Bar & Restaurant), 357, Moon Muang Rd (NE corner of moat), ☏ +66 87-0481787, riders.corner.cnx@gmail.com. De facto motorcyclist headquarters in Chiang Mai. Clean and comfortable. Full restaurant and bar. Five rooms and frequently fully booked. Free Wi-Fi. Secure parking for motorcycles. English owner is helpful and free with information. Sells good maps of north Thailand. 15 Spicy House, 42/1 Ratchamanka Rd., ☏ +66 84-6134776 (Mim), spicyhouse@hotmail.com. Perhaps the friendliest little guest house in Chiang Mai. Beloved by backpackers for its low cost and friendly atmosphere. Mim, the owner, gives a free meal for guests every night. She is also an expert chef, and Spicy House sometimes acts as a cooking school. It is in the centre of the Chiang Mai action, but down a quiet soi where you can withdraw from it when needed. 16 Tha Phae Inn, 164-166 Tha Phae Rd (about 600 m east of Tha Phae Gate on the north side), ☏ +66 53-234640, fax: +66 53 252790. Family-run guesthouse. Friendly. Excellent value/location combination. Basic double rooms with baths, hot water & small TV. Free Wi-Fi. Common area with tables so you can bring food and eat. Refreshments for sale on-premises. Basic double air-con room with en suite shower, no fridge, old furniture, but generally clean. 17 YMCA International Hotel, 11 Mengrairasmi Sermsuk Rd, ☏ +66 53-221819, chiangmai:hotel@ymcachiangmai.org. 88 rooms and dormitory. Restaurant, swimming pool, coffee shop, massage.

Mid-range

18 Boonthavon Apartment Hotel, 39 Soi 1, Ratchadamnoen Rd (walk from Tha Phae Gate into the old city down Ratchadamnoen Rd; turn right after 10 m at Soi 1; follow it round (100 m), Boonthavon is on your left), ☏ +66 53-226700. Dead central, and probably the cleanest hotel in Chiang Mai. Extremely friendly staff (only a few of whom speak English). Security entrance. A short walk to the Tha Phae Gate in the old city (nice central location). Monthly rentals are available deposit (there are additional charges: electricity, for unlimited Internet, for cable TV and for water). Location is great. Just around the corner is a great little cafe called "Angel's" which serves a mix of Thai food and really great Western breakfasts. The location of the hotel is also a short walk to several excellent restaurants and cafes such as the UN Irish Pub, New Delhi Indian Restaurant, and Loco Elvis Tex-Mex. 19 BP Chiang Mai City Hotel, 154 Ratchamanka Rd, ☏ +66 53-270711, info@bpchiangmaicityhotel.com. A mid-sized hotel with a small fitness centre and pool. 20 Centre of the Universe (Chiang Mai Swimming Pool and Resort), ☏ +66 81-4730746, +66 53-327808, info@therealcentreoftheuniverse.com. With only 3 detached Thai-style bungalows in a private garden, this has to be the smallest boutique hotel with the biggest swimming pool in Chiang Mai. Very friendly and helpful staff. Each room has air-con, TV, Wi-Fi, fridge, tea and coffee making facilities and access to 3 swimming pools. baht. 21 Chiang Mai Apartments, 9/2 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 7 (across from the Sri Pat Guesthouse (no sign)), ☏ +66 53-225140. Very central, clean and bright rooms. Excellent quality. Free Wi-Fi in room. 22 Cool Guesthouse, 87 Sripoom Rd, Sripoom (close to Chang Phuak Gate), ☏ +66 53-212618. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Small boutique guesthouse with patio and garden. Free bicycle use for guests. English, French, and Spanish speaking staff. Each room has air-con and fan, cable TV, free Wi-Fi, safe. (updated Oct 2022) 23 Elliebum Boutique Hotel, 114/3-4 Ratchamanka Rd, ☏ +66 53-814723, elliebum@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Friendly boutique guesthouse, beautifully furnished, spacious, spotlessly clean, air conditioned, en suite twin or double rooms. Breakfast included. 1500+ baht. (updated Oct 2022) 24 Lai-Thai Guest House, 111/4-5 Kotchasarn Rd, ☏ +66 53-271725, +66 53-206438, mail@laithai.com. A large northern Thai-style guesthouse with hotel-like facilities and services. All 110 air-conditioned rooms en suite with hot shower are decorated with traditional wooden floors and bamboo walls, equipped with minibar, cable & satellite TV, and free Wi-Fi. 25 Liam's Suan Dok Mai, 87/45 Moo 7, Samakon, Faham, ☏ +66 53-855033, info@liamsuandokmai.com. Check-out: 10:30. Beautifully decorated guest house on the northern outskirts of the city that was built from scratch by a Belgian couple. Offers comfortable and spacious rooms with air conditioning, a pool, and a nice dining area for meals. One can find plenty of places nearby to eat and drink as residents in the village setup tables outside of their homes and operate small-time restaurants and bars. Provides a good mix of comfortable lodging with hosts that fluently speak several languages. Also pet-friendly. Free shuttle service from Chiang Mai. 26 Nice Mum Lodge, Loi Kroh Rd, Soi 2 (25 m off Loi Kroh Rd), ☏ +66 83-2044111, nicemumlodge@gmail.com. Oddly named, but a superior accommodation. Close to shops, bars, restaurants, the Night Bazaar. Spotlessly clean, if somewhat austere. Run by the affable Mr Pong, who speaks good English. Great plumbing, showers, large flat screen TVs with Western programmes, fridge. Secure, covered parking for those turning up with expensive rides. Highly recommended. Free, excellent free Wi-Fi. 27 Royal Peninsula Hotel, Assadatorn Rd, Northeast (outside N side of moat), ☏ +66 53 252 222. Good rooms, air-con, hot water, bar fridge and TV. Huge and a bit old building, but OK if you're not looking for luxury. At times (especially during the low season) may be available for 500-600 baht on various hotel booking websites - that's a steal! 700-900 baht. (updated Apr 2018) 28 Sakulchai Place, Huay Kaew Rd, Soi 10, ☏ +66 53-211982. Spacious and clean. Standard, deluxe and superior rooms available for daily, weekly, or monthly rates. Internet (Wi-Fi/LAN), air-con, hot showers. New building, modern rooms. In the trendy Nimmanhaemin district across from shopping mall and 5-10 minute walking distance to night life, cafes, restaurants. 29 Siri Guesthouse, 31/3 Moon Mueang, Soi 5, ☏ +66 53-326550. A family-run guest house on a popular, but quiet lane. Fan and air-con rooms, all with bathrooms and hot water. Free Wi-Fi. 700 baht. 30 Sleep guesthouse, 26/1 moonmuang soi7 (inside the moat, northeast quadrant), ☏ +66 53-2975487, info@sleepguesthouse.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Nicely decorated loft/industrial design guesthouse. Double and twin rooms. All rooms with air conditioning, mini-fridge, 32 inch led TV, private bath room with rain shower, free wiffi and free breakfast included in price. 999 baht. (updated Feb 2015) 31 Smile House Boutique, 3/5 Suriyawong Rd, Soi 1 (behind Ruam Pat Hospital), ☏ +66 53-800567-8. A wooden house which is simply decorated to create a peaceful atmosphere. The rooms are beautifully decorated. 32 Sri-Pat Guesthouse, 16 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 7 (inside the moat, northeast quadrant), ☏ +66 53-218716. Nice guest house with air conditioning, TV, private shower, fridge and a little balcony. Try getting a room on the street side, since the other side has a water pump working during the night which can be annoying in some rooms. 33 Swiss-Lanna Lodge, Rat U-thit Soi 2, Wat Ket, ☏ +66 53-411202, info@swisslannalodge.com. Renovated (as of 2015) wooden northern Thai-style guesthouse. It touts its "extremely friendly and helpful" staff, which it says speak English and French provide great tourist information. 890-3,390 baht. 34 Viangbua Mansion, 3/1 Viangbua Rd, ☏ +66 53-411202. Deluxe serviced-apartments for monthly rental. Offer a wide range of services and some degree of security. In a somewhat remote NW area of the city. No more daily rates. Monthly rates from 13,000 (34 m² room) up to 60,000 (300 m² Presidential Suite). 35 Royal Train Garden Resort (บ้านสวนรถไฟรีสอร์ท), 1269 Road, Hang Dong District, ☏ +66 61 274 0999. Located in an area far from the city with beautiful natural view, this resort features an old steam locomotive and trains. It has normal rooms in a concrete building and wooden houses in traditional Lanna style. (Wooden houses may be unavailable in off-season for renovation though.) The resort has a restaurant and a public swimming pool (some house has its dedicated swimming pool). For visitors without a car or a motorbike, Grab is available for transportation in the area around the resort. around 1500 baht. (updated Sep 2024)

Stay safe

Emergency contacts

Fire: 053-241777 Police - emergencies: 191 Rescue Team: 053-218888 Tourist police: 1155, 053-278559

Crime

Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is quite safe, even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but violent crime is rare and visitors shouldn't worry unduly. As always, travellers should take extra care in all poorly lit or more remote areas. Don't carry valuables in a bag after dark as the most common tourist related crime here is bag-snatching by youths on motorbikes. Mind your bag especially if you are walking on a dark street at night. The safest approach is to act like your Thai hosts and wear reasonable clothing (shoulders and chest covered) medium-length skirts, long shorts or long pants, speak in a moderate tone of voice, and avoid flashing money or jewellery. Not only will respectable Thais appreciate your behaviour, you are much less likely to become a target of any criminal activity.

Scams

Some scams from Bangkok have started to rear their ugly heads in Chiang Mai. Two in particular are worth watching out for: the gem scam, where you are talked into buying near-worthless gems at far above their real value; and the tuk-tuk scam, where a smooth-talking tuk tuk driver tells you that the attraction you want to see is closed, and instead offers you a sightseeing tour for 20 baht (or some similarly unrealistic amount) - the tour will either consist of nothing but overpriced gift shops, or will smoothly segue into the gem scam. See the "Stay Safe" section of the Bangkok article for more details.

Go next

Chiang Dao — an hour north of the city, and a good starting point for treks into the mountains Chiang Rai — a relaxed city 3 hours north, and a transit point on the way to the Golden Triangle and Laos Doi Inthanon National Park — the highest peak in Thailand (2,599 m), 60 km SW of Chiang Mai Lampang — urban Northern Thailand without the commercialism, 100 km SE of Chiang Mai Lamphun — a scenic town with a long history and a longan festival, 26 km SE of Chiang Mai Mae Rim — 20 minutes (15 km) north of the city with the Mae Sa valley leading to Samoeng and an interesting temple (Wat Pa Dara Phirom) Nan — the former capital of a small kingdom filled with history and temples and surrounded by mountains Visit the towns along the Mae Hong Son Loop: Pai — a tourist-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller & backpacker scene. Popular with hippies Mae Hong Son — a picturesque little town with lush valleys, rocky streams and a small lake, 235 km from Chiang Mai on Rte 1095. By public bus about 6 hr

Border crossings

Chiang Khong - Huay Xai, Laos (six hours by bus (from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal, east of the old town, daily 08:30) to the border where you can catch a boat across the Mekong River to the Lao side, The bus will stop about 1 km shy of the border, tuk-tuks will be waiting to take you the remainder of the way). From Huay Xai also there are slow (2-day) and fast (6-8 hr) boats ply the Mekong to Luang Prabang. Buses are also available to Luang Prabang and north to Luang Namtha. Mae Sai - Tachilek, Myanmar (Mae Sai and Tachilek lie 5 hr north of Chiang Mai on the Thai-Myanmar border). Best known for their border markets. A popular place to pop over the border for a few hours before renewing your Thai visa. There are no consular services so you cannot get a new visa here. It is possible to get a 14-day Thai visa on re-entry to Thailand which can come in very handy if you do not have any time left on your current Thai visa. Many people buy Western alcohol, especially wine, while in Myanmar due to the very large duties imposed in Thailand.

More pictures of Chiang Mai

From this destination's category on Wikimedia Commons. Each photograph is credited to its own author under its own licence.