Tenerife

Understand

Tenerife, the largest island of the Canary Islands archipelago and home to ca. 900,000 inhabitants, is a fantastic holiday destination. The island has a rich cultural history dating back thousands of years when it was populated by the Guanche aborigines, and colonial architecture dating from the 1497 Spanish conquest of the island can be admired in many of its modern towns and cities. Historic capital city San Cristóbal de La Laguna is an architectural gem on its own, and its centre is one of the island's two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In addition to its cultural assets, Tenerife also has many natural treasures. The most famous of which is Teide National Park, the island's other UNESCO World Heritage site, and home to Spain's tallest mountain El Teide (3,715 m above sea level), also the world's 3rd highest volcano (after the Hawaiian volcanoes). It is the oldest and largest protected area of the Canary Islands, and receives ca. 3 million visitors annually. The north of the island is also a natural reserve, the Anaga Rural Park. A poor, banana-growing region in past decades, Tenerife has been brought up to European living standards since the arrival of mass air travel in the 1960s, which brought industry and millions of tourists each year. Over the decades this has led to many complexes and houses being built, making parts of the island highly urbanized. While part of the EU for political purposes, the island remains outside its customs and VAT area, making high tax goods such as tobacco and alcohol cheaper than elsewhere in Europe. Because almost all goods must be imported, food and clothing in particular are more expensive than on mainland Europe. Many of the younger tourists hang out on the south of the island where there are plenty of hotels, activities and British food and drink. Older tourists and families tend to choose Puerto de La Cruz and its environs on the northern side, where you will find more green and vibrant local culture with a more Spanish year-round springtime feel.

Climate

The Atlantic ocean absorbs heat in summer and releases it in winter, granting Tenerife fairly constant temperatures throughout the year, with typically less than 10° difference between summer and winter. In combination with its proximity to the equator, this results in mild temperatures from fall to spring, and hot temperatures in summer (June to September). Fortunately the ocean winds cool the island down, and at higher elevations the temperatures are very mild even when the low laying parts of the island succumb under a scorching heat. Tenerife receives most of its precipitation during the winter months (November to February), which always falls as rain at sea level and as snow on El Teide. On the south side there is consistent summer, little to no wind, and pretty much perfect beach-weather for much of the year though there have been rare instances of cool to cold weather in the Jan-Feb period. Also expect some very wet days for that time of year though most days will still be sunny. In the North, the weather fluctuates a bit more, but is also mostly pleasant though not as hot as the south.

What's inside

The entire island is a Spanish province named Santa Cruz de Tenerife, which leads to inevitable confusion with the capital city Santa Cruz de Tenerife. The island is divided into 31 municipalities, belonging to three regions with their own distinct climate, history, and appeal.

1 Teide National Park – A UNESCO World Heritage Site surrounding El Teide, with 3,715 m the highest peak on Spanish territory, an active volcano, and most visited natural wonder in the country with more than 4 million annual visitors. 2 Anaga Rural Park (Macizo de Anaga) – A protected area redesignated from natural park to rural park.

3 Corona Forestal Natural Park – A protected environmental zone with an area of 410 km², making it the largest protected natural area of the Canary Islands. It extends from ca. 300 m above sea level to the slope of 4 Mount Guajara at 2,718 m. Most of the area is covered by Canarian pine forests. 5 Teno Rural Park – One of the 3 volcanic formations that make up Tenerife, in the northwestern part of the island. The massif is 5 to 7 million years old and furrowed by deep ravines. It ends abruptly in a series of high cliffs that plummet over the sea known as Los Gigantes. The park spans an area of 80 km² and is known for its basaltic lava flows and diverse flora resulting from its microclimate.

Getting there

By plane

As an island the usual way to arrive is by air. There are two airports, Tenerife South (Reina Sofia) near Los Cristianos and Tenerife North (Los Rodeos) by San Cristóbal de La Laguna. Titsa buses run from both airports to other towns, though you may have to change routes. They stop around midnight and start again around 05:00-06:00.

1 Tenerife Norte (Los Rodeos). (TFN IATA) Most services into this airport are from the mainland of Spain. Iberia, AirEuropa, Vueling and Ryanair operate here. This airport is the older of the two on the island and Tenerife South Airport was built in part due to persistent fog problems which also played a role in the Tenerife Airport disaster of the 1970s when two 747s collided on the runway. There is a monument to commemorate the disaster in San Cristóbal de La Laguna. (updated Dec 2016) 2 Tenerife Sur (Reina Sofia) (In case you want to save €1–2 when taking the bus out from the airport, walk to the Casablanca bus stop near the highway and take any bus there–all buses heading to the airport and further will stop here first, but it is a cheaper price since the airport costs extra.). (TFS IATA) Named after the previous Queen of Spain this is by far the busier of the two airports. Flights from various UK airports are available through EasyJet, Ryanair, Jet2, and TUI Airways. Flights from the Spanish mainland are offered by Iberia, Air Europa, and Vueling. There are also flights from Germany offered by Ryanair, Eurowings, and Condor among others. There are many other destinations apart from those mentioned here. (updated Dec 2016)

By boat

Trasmediterranea run a weekly ferry from Cadiz in Spain which takes two days. For more information on available ferry companies, times and prices between the islands, see Canary Islands#By boat 2, or here specifically for Tenerife.

Getting around

By rental car

If you are in the possession of a driver's licence, a rental car is the best option for discovering the remote locations on the island—see Canary Islands#By rental car for more information.

Driving

Most of the road network is in good shape, although roads in the mountains may be less well maintained. Fallen rocks blocking the road are a recurring hazard, especially on roads carved into the mountain side. The highways around the island are toll-free and mostly limited to 120 km/h. Everything called "Calle" or "Camino" in the rural and residential areas is likely to be very narrow and potentially steep and curvy. Especially during the weekend, many people come out with their bicycles and motorbikes and use the island's roads for extensive leisure trips. Be particularly cautious and mindful then—everyone wants to enjoy their time.

Navigation

The road network is under active (re)construction. As of 2019, your rental car's built-in navigation system may still be missing some of the newer main roads. Google Maps appears to be fairly complete in terms of major roads. OpenStreetMap provides very complete maps of the islands roads, hiking trails and other points of interest. When planning excursions and trips, keep travel times in mind. Satellite navigation systems usually assume you'll be travelling at the speed limit, which is unrealistic on most of the road network. An actual average speed of 30 km/h or below is realistic for tourists, although locals who know the road network well can be seen racing up and down mountains occasionally.

See

For an island less than 100 km long, Tenerife boasts as surprising variety of landscapes, biomes, and climates. Thanks to the climate altering effects of its volcanic mountain ranges, hot arid climates in the south transition to wet and cool climates in the north and east of the island. This makes Tenerife a formidable holiday destination, because visitors are rewarded with many different views without having to spend considerable time travelling.

Nature

Unsurprisingly, much of the appeal of Tenerife comes from its numerous natural treasures. Almost a third of the islands area is protected and well preserved. It is an island of contrasts. The northern and eastern regions of the island are green and covered with forests and banana plantations alike, with flowers in every imaginable colour blooming almost around the year. The charms of the misty forests and lush vegetation make the northern half of the island a paradise loved by millions of visitors every year. The southern region of Tenerife has a very arid and hot climate, and most of it is a desert landscape with little vegetation aside from cacti, woody shrubs, and countless wind turbines. This vast region is sparsely populated and has little to offer to tourists except the brutal hardships of its desert climate, and the fauna and flora that have adapted to it. Of particular interest are the following national and nature parks:

Teide National Park – Best known for volcano El Teide (3,715 m) at its heart, surrounded by desolate landscapes of lava rock. El Teide is not only the highest mountain on the Canary Islands but in all of Spain. Over 4 million visitors are attracted to the volcanic landscapes of Teide National Park annually, making it the most visited national park in Europe. The park occupies the entire interior of the island, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The breathtaking volcanic landscape with black lava rocks are worth the journey up the mountain which takes around 90 minutes from La Orotava or Vilaflor. Travelling up the summit by 1 cable car or hiking offers a fantastic view of Tenerife and neighbouring islands provided there are no clouds. It is also one of the best locations on the planet to observe the sky, and a visit to the Teide Observatory is a highlight of any visit for astronomy enthusiasts. There is a free visitor centre for Teide National Park in La Orotava that is worth a visit. Anaga Rural Park – Covers 140 km² in the north-east of the island and has been a Protected Biosphere since 2015 because it is home to the largest number of endemic species in Europe. It is best known for its mist forests, and numerous tiny villages that have largely preserved their historic life style. Teno Rural Park – On the opposite side of Tenerife, covering most of the western tip of the island. It has a mountainous landscape abruptly ending in the ocean with tall cliffs called Los Gigantes. The best known settlement in the park is Masca, the islands most picturesque village. Corona Forrestal Natural Park – Covers large swaths of forest of Canarian pine trees on the slopes of El Teide, and is with an area of 410 km² the largest protected area on the Canary Islands. It stretches from an altitude of 300 m up to 2,715 m. Volcanic activity has also created some of the largest volcanic cave systems, the 2 Wind Cave near Icod de los Vinos. With a length of 17 km it is the largest system in Europe and 5th in the world, after those of Hawaii. A tour around the cave takes visitors into the heart of the volcano. Places are limited so make sure to book tickets online well in advance.

Do

When planning your activities, keep in mind that during the weekend and on public holidays the locals will also head anywhere where tourists are having fun. At the same time, many bus lines will run at a reduced frequency. Hence, it can become crowded around Teide, the beaches and on the roads, so it may be wise to use these days for relaxing somewhere quiet and head out again on Monday.

Beaches

The volcanic nature of the island mean that Tenerife offers few natural sand beaches. Those that exist are characterised by black sand made of volcanic rock, and many of them (especially in the North) are largely inaccessible due to the steep cliffs. To satisfy the demand for sun-bathing space, resorts and artificial beaches have been created by the tourism industry in certain parts of the island – in some cases even with golden sand imported from elsewhere. Some of the best beaches of Tenerife are in the southwest, Los Gigantes, Playa San Juan 8 km south and Playa Abama just another kilometre south. Also, there is Fañabe, in the south with its golden sand, showers and excellent facilities. Also popular are Torviscas with its marina, Playa de las Américas for its grey blackish sandy stretches and Los Cristianos' yellow imported sand beach. Candelaria in the east has a small black shingle beach. Up north Puerto de la Cruz has several beaches with fine black sand, and Santa Cruz' golden sand has been imported for its Terasitas beach from the Sahara. Beaches close to touristic centres often have sun-loungers with parasols available to hire for the day, but if you are doing this for a few days it is probably better to just buy a parasol and some beach mats.

Diving

Tenerife has numerous scuba-dive operators. The seas are diveable all year, with temperatures from 18°C in January to 25°C in August. Go around the harbour wall in Puerto de la Cruz for fantastic volcanic rock formations, or feed the stringrays at Las Galletas for something a bit different. El Condesito is a vessel that sank near Las Galletas on the south coast of Tenerife and is now a popular dive site. The deepest point of the wreck is at 21 m and the shallowest at 6 m. Visibility can exceed 35 m. The hull, engine room and cabin used to be intact with only the bow having been torn away. Shoals of sardines may be seen at the top of the wreck, and large trumpetfish are often found around the propeller. It is not uncommon to spot barracuda, red sea stars, rays, octopus and eels within the wreck. There is a 36 m drop off nearby which is often dived by more experienced divers to see black coral before ascending to the El Condesito to decompress.

Shopping

Keep in mind that almost all goods other than fish and fruits must be imported, so buying clothes or electronics is neither economical nor ecological. In addition, the quality of hardware such as cameras and binoculars sold in gift/souvenir shops or by street vendors is questionable.

Money

See Canary Islands#Money for more information on cash, ATMs and credit cards.

Opening hours

Opening hours can vary considerably between different places and types of shops. While most supermarkets and shopping centers stay open throughout the day, many smaller shops close for a couple of hours in the afternoon – especially in the less touristy areas. Most stores are closed on Sundays and bank holidays, with certain exceptions in tourist hot spots.

Eat

A good summary of Canarian food can be found under Canary Islands#Eat. Local taverns are called guachinches, typical for the Canarias and particularly common on Tenerife and Gran Canaria. They serve their own wine accompanied by homemade traditional food, often grilled fish or roasted meat. Stews of all kinds are very common and only cost a few euros for a portion. This blog keeps an overview of the best guachinches on the island. Fast food is becoming increasingly common on Tenerife, catering to younger demographics and tourists. Restaurants with international cuisine (Indian, Chinese, ...) are abundant in larger cities. Especially in the south of the island, there are plenty of restaurants serving exotic foods such as hamburgers, pizza, fries, etc. There are 15 McDonald's including some on the beaches. In touristic hotspots such as Playa de las Américas, menus are available in numerous languages ranging from English and German to Russian and some Scandinavian languages, making it very easy to choose even if you are not familiar with the local dishes' names or don't understand Spanish.

Drink

The nicest bars are found in Puerto de la Cruz, La Laguna, and in the capital Santa Cruz de Tenerife. They serve a wide variety of locally produced beers, wines, and liqueurs. The best wines also originate from the north of the island, where cultivation of the malvasia grape variety has a long tradition since export began in the 17th century. 50% of Canary wine denominations originate from Tenerife. In addition, countless wines are produced in house by guachinches in small quantities, often as mixtures of red wines with fruity wines. Beers produced on the island are also widely available, most notably Dorada (gold) and Reine (queen), although their taste is not particularly special. Because of the size constraints (arable land) on the island, the entire production is consumed domestically, so you won't find these beers anywhere else. The abundance of fruits also yields a variety of liqueurs and other drinks with high alcoholic content, most notably banana liqueurs.

The coffee Barraquito (also called barraco) is a Canary specialty and very popular on Tenerife and on La Palma. It is served in a small glass, with a base of condensed milk, espresso, and a shot of Licor 43 (Cuarenta Y Tres). It is often served after the meal, finished with cinnamon and lime zest. The south of Tenerife has a 'booze scene' reputation, with Playa de las Américas and Los Cristianos providing ample locations for those that enjoy 24 hour clubbing and drinking, with clubs charging between €10 and €25 entrance. The drinks available are the same as the rest of Europe (predominantly British) with prices being slightly less than those of continental Europe. Better alternatives are found in the north of the island, especially in La Laguna, where there are no entrance fees and drinks have a higher price/quality ratio.

Sleep

Choosing a location

When booking accommodation, pay close attention to the location. To preserve the authenticity of its historic towns and cities, there are few hotels close to tourist hot spots — hotels like those in Calle San Agustín in San Cristóbal de La Laguna are reserved for the happy few with deep pockets. Instead, authorities have deliberately opted to build accommodation where it's less of an eye sore: in the desert in the south of the island. If you're primarily interested in beaches and nightlife, that's perfectly fine. But otherwise, these are very far away from the locations and attractions of interest to visitors, which are all concentrated in the northern and eastern regions of Tenerife! If the address you have been given points to a location in Los Cristianos, Playa de las Américas, or Costa Adeje, you may want to look elsewhere – you'll be one or more hours (depending on whether you're travelling by car or TITSA bus) away from the nearest attractions. Keep in mind that the entire island is administratively part of a Spanish province called Santa Cruz de Tenerife, and some hotels have been known to exploit this naming confusion to trick travelers into believing they are actually booking a bed in the city Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

Hotels

Tenerife is an immensely popular holiday destination for many continental Europeans, and therefore hotel accommodation is in high demand. Expect to pay hefty rates for a nice room close to the historic centre of San Cristóbal de La Laguna or La Orotava. A less glorious but more budget friendly alternative is searching for a hotel room in Puerto de la Cruz, where high rise hotel blocks were built in the 1960s and 1970s to accommodate for slob tourists. Another alternative is looking for hotels in smaller, less popular towns such as Tegueste, La Esperanza, or San Andrés. Accommodation there is generally cheaper, and has the added advantage of being less crowded. Those looking for a beach holiday will likely find something to taste in one of the brand new residential areas of Puertito de Güímar.

Camping

Wild camping is not allowed in the National Park. However, this rule does not apply to camper vans or cars, and you can stay anywhere without issues, even in the most remote and beautiful places. Along with a few commercial campsites, there are free communal campsites called acampadas. The acampadas are usually in the inland and above 1,000 m altitude. They often have water and toilets. To sleep at one free acampada, you have to book the night in advance on the website of the town council (cabildo). Unfortunately, the website is only in Spanish, very slow and sometimes down. However, it won't be an issue if you don't reserve, especially if the site is not overcrowded or closed. Also this official website has camp sites, recreational areas, and such listed. Furthermore, Tenerife is famous for its caves in the hippie community and some caves are luxuriously furnished with sofas and solar panels for digital nomads (many from Poland). In general, many people stay in remote places in caves or along the beach on Tenerife, like Playa Los Patos near Puerto de la Cruz or Hippie Beach near Costa Adeje. The chances of police patrolling such places is low and people staying there know that. Either way, always remember: Take nothing but pictures, and leave nothing but footprints.

Local customs

As with any small island, Tenerife's ecosystem is vulnerable and is already suffering from the consequences of invasive species (both fauna and flora) introduced to the ecosystem by travellers. Examples are the large prickly pears cactus and agave, both originating from the Americas, but nowadays so common on Tenerife that they are often mistaken for native species. Among invasive animals are hedgehogs and termites. Few of them have natural enemies on the island, allowing them to replicate rapidly and taking over the entire ecosystem. When travelling to Tenerife, carefully check luggage for stowaway seeds and insects (including eggs and larvae). This is particularly a risk when travelling from a similar climate, giving stowaways a high chance of survival. If found upon arrival, dispose of them through incineration (can be as simple as burning with a lighter). If you believe exotic fauna or flora has already escaped, alert authorities immediately. Consider the scarcity of fresh water on the island during your stay, and use rain water to wash clothes or flush toilets if your accommodation allows you to do so. In some of the more remote places, you will find signs advising you to not flush your toilet paper. That may mean that the old sewage system can't handle it, or that the untreated sewage will be dumped straight into the ocean. Your poop will dissolve and decompose quickly, but toilet paper will linger around much longer and may end up ruining someone's beach day at the other end of the island. Throwing your TP into the bin may feel awkward at first, but as log as you keep the lid closed it won't stink up the place at all.

Stay safe

Pickpocketing

Tenerife is generally a safe place to visit but as always, beware of pickpockets. Do not take electrical devices, credit cards or large amounts of cash to the beach if you plan to leave your goods unattended while swimming. Take note that when walking through Playas De Las Americas, there is a lot of clubs round here and some drunkenness in the night hours. Many mobile phones have already been snatched around the island from drunken lads, especially at night. Taxis are widely available, and not too badly priced.

Car break-ins

Masca is well known for tourists getting broken into their car and having mobiles and other valuables stolen. Thieves will even try to use stolen mobiles to extract money via credit card or other payment services. Also other crowded tourist spots are prone to such issues. Hence, never leave anything in open sight.

Scratchcard touts

If you are holidaying in Tenerife you are probably going to be approached by "scratchcard touts" whose main aim is to part you with several thousand pounds for worthless contracts for time-share apartments. This view is backed up by the UK's Office of Fair Trading who suggest that every year 400,000 UK consumers fall victim to these scams in destinations such as Tenerife, the Costa del Sol and Gran Canaria. On average each victim loses more than £3,000. Bogus "scratchcard touts" offer cards that will always be a winner, but to collect their prize, people need to attend a lengthy presentation and are persuaded into signing a contract for an "exclusive" club on the basis of false claims as to the price, range and quality of holidays available. The OFT's is advising people to ask three simple questions: can you take away the contract to consider at your leisure? Is everything you were promised in the presentation in the contract? Do you know exactly what you are getting for your money? If the answer to any of these questions is no, then simply walk away.

Go next

La Gomera – A hiking center, but less diverse than Tenerife and only recommended if one cannot get enough—1 hour away by ferry. Gran Canaria – Second largest island, 2½ hr by ferry. La Palma and El Hierro – Besides La Graciosa, the most remote islands with sufficient infrastructure, also accessible by ferry, from Los Cristianos.

More pictures of Tenerife

From this destination's category on Wikimedia Commons. Each photograph is credited to its own author under its own licence.