Seville

Understand

With more than 685,000 inhabitants (2021), and 1.5 million in the metropolitan area, it is Spain's fourth-largest city, dominating southern Spain. The smooth, slow Guadalquivir River flows through Seville, known as Betis by the Romans and as Betik Wahd-Al-Khabir by the Arabs. Since it is hard to navigate upstream from Seville, the cereal-producing region starts here, and Seville has been a busy port from Roman times, under Muslim rule, and exploding during the Age of Discovery. As the monopoly was broken and Cádiz largely took Seville's place, the city entered a period of relative decline. In the 19th century Seville gained a reputation for its architecture and culture and was a stop along the Romantic "Grand Tour" of Europe. Seville has built on its tourism industry since, playing host to the International Exposition in 1992, which spurred the construction of a new airport, a new train station, a bullet train link to Madrid, new bridges and improvements to the main boulevards. For classical music buffs, Seville is the setting of many famous operas over the years, such as Mozart's Le nozze di Figaro and Don Giovanni, Beethoven's Fidelio, Rossini's Il barbiere di Siviglia and Bizet's Carmen.

Visitor information

Turismo de la Provincia de Sevilla. (updated Jul 2021)

Getting there

By plane

Ryanair flies from some 50 destinations (some seasonal) within Spain, across Europe (especially from Italy, Germany, UK and Ireland), and from Morocco. Iberia, Vueling and other carriers fly from Madrid, Mallorca, Asturias, Bilbao, Barcelona, Valencia, Tenerife, Lanzarote, Melilla in Spanish North Africa, and other European cities. It's only worth flying here from Madrid if you have a connecting flight, as the trains from the capital are so fast. 1 Sevilla Airport (SVQ IATA) (10 km northeast of city centre on A-4). The airport is a single terminal with Arrivals downstairs, with car hire desks and not much else. There are more groundside cafés and other facilities upstairs in the Departures hall. From there you pass through security and U-turn into the long airside mall. Gates are divided into areas A and B for Schengen destinations and C for non-Schengen destinations. Cafés and shops line the first half of the mall in areas A and B. Passport control for non-Schengen destinations is between B and C, but don't pass through to area C until an hour before your flight (or when displayed on flight information screens) as there are only toilets and one café in this area. As of 2024 there are only two manual passport control booths operating for all non-Schengen departures and these only open 45 minutes before flight departure time. The e-gates are non operational. If there are two flights leaving around the same time from the C Gates, be prepared for queues. (updated Apr 2023) Getting there/away:

Tussam Bus EA (for "Especial Aeropuerto") runs daily every 15 min from 05:00 to 00:30. One-way ticket €6, same-day round trip €8 (December 2025). Buy tickets from ticket machines next to the bus stop or on the bus. It runs from outside Arrivals, down Av de Kansas City to the main railway station, then loops with four stops around the south edge of city centre to the main bus station at Plaza de Armas. Total journey 35 min.For going from Seville to the airport: The bus EA departs in front of the bus station Plaza de Armas where the city buses depart (not downstairs!). Ride apps Use the local Cabify app, Uber or Bolt. Their designated pick-up area is on the ground level of the parking garage right next to the left outside of arrivals. Taxis to the town centre really shouldn't cost more than €25 for two of you, though they'll make out it's more today for the fiesta of St Strabismus and because your luggage is left-handed. However, taxi fares are officially regulated. Jerez de la Frontera Airport (XRY IATA) is south of Seville and can be reached in 1 hour driving. Other airports around are in Faro (FAO IATA) and Málaga (AGP IATA).

By carpooling

A common option is using carpooling such as BlaBlaCar, a safe transportation method used by many locals. In Andalusia you usually get a better price using Blablacar than travelling by train or intercity bus.

Getting around

On foot

Walking is the best option for sight-seeing: Seville is a large city but the points of interest are in the compact old centre. Strolling and coming across fine old churches, charming cafes and hidden plazas is part of the experience of being here.

By public transport

With the rechargable green travel card you can use all means of public transport (metro, tram, regional trains (Cercanías), city and regional buses) for a lower price. The card can be bought in tobacco shops for €1.50 and must be charged with at least €5 (Nov 2024). There are other travel cards issued by the metro or the city bus operator, but you can only use certain means of public transport with those cards. The local bus operator issues a rechargeable card named bonobus. The minimum recharge is €7 plus €1.50 as a deposit. With the card the fare is €0.35 or €0.38 including a transfer. Bonobuses can be bought at most kiosks and tabacarias (tobacco shops) (updated Mar 2024)

By bus

Buses run frequently and cover the majority of the city in their routes. The single fare without a travel card is €1.40. Regular service is kept until around 23:30, after which night buses run, with different routes, on the hour until 02:00 (updated Mar 2024) The letter "C" in front of a bus line means circular. The standard fares of city buses apply. The bus line EA looks like a normal city bus and has many stops in the city. All rides cost €5 (Dec 2024) even if you don't use the bus to the airport but only inside of Seville. The Hop-on-Hop-off bus service is available in Seville for €26 (March 2024). It has 14 stops on both sides of the river. Great for a multilingual overview for first time visitors.

See

Landmarks

1 Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla), Avenida de la Constitución, ☏ +34 902 09 96 92, info@catedraldesevilla.es. Jul-Aug: M 09:30-14:30, Tu-Sa 09:30-14:00, Su 14:30-18:00; Sep-Jun: M 11:00-15:30, Tu-Sa 11:00-17:00, Su 14:30-18:00. Huge 15th-century church on the site of the former great mosque; richly decorated with the central nave rising to 37 m. An ornate canopy and statue marks the final resting place of Christopher Columbus. If there's a queue for tickets then go to the nearby Church of Salvador (Iglesia del Salvador) and buy a combi ticket. Cathedral admission includes La Giralda, the minaret that is now the magnificent bell tower. Within, you ascend 34 ramps - no need to keep count as they're tallied on the wall - then a last short flight of steps brings you onto the viewing terrace. Church of Salvador: all of its Rocco altarpieces were cleaned and excavations revealed remains from an Islamic mosque and earlier Christian churches, now accessible in the crypt. Unless you like massive cathedrals, the effect is much more impressive. Adult €10, concessions €5. (updated Jan 2020) 2 Real Alcázar, Enter from Plaza del Triunfo, ☏ +34 912 302 200, alcazar@patronato-alcazarsevilla.es. Apr-Sep: daily 09:30-19:00; Oct-Mar: daily 09:30-17:00. A beautiful palace in Mudéjar (Moorish) style, built in the 12th century by the Almohad Caliphs. Greatly remodelled and extended in the 14th century by Pedro I the Cruel, its myriad rooms, extravagant architecture, lavish gardens including a maze, with many courtyards, ponds and secrets to be explored, make it a fascinating place to visit. The room where Christopher Columbus's journey across the Atlantic was planned has his coat of arms embroidered on the wall along with those of royalty. The Royal Apartments are open to tours whenever the royal family aren't using them. In the heat of summer the palace is a cool retreat from the sun's glare, and there are night tours Mar-Oct. There are toilets and a cafe within the walls of the site. It gets busy in high season: buy tickets online in advance, and only from the official website. The tourist entrance, "The Lion's Gate", is on the side facing the cathedral and has a large image of a lion above it. Adult €13.50, concessions €6, plus Royal Apartments €4.50. (updated Mar 2024)

3 Hospital de los Venerables (Diego Velázquez Research Centre), Plaza de los Venerables 8 (in the Barrio Santa Cruz), ☏ +34 697 898 659, fax: +34 95 456 45 95, venerables@artisplendore.com. Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-15:00. A 17th-century retirement home and hospital for aged and sickly retired priests, restored by the Fundación to preserve an example of Andalusian architecture at its very best. Includes a resplendent Baroque chapel which is highly recommended, as well as the Santa Rufina painted by Diego Velázquez. €10 with audio guide. (updated Dec 2021) Barrio Santa Cruz is the old Jewish Quarter, the winding narrow lanes just east of the cathedral and north of Alcázar. It's the most charming part of the city, with lots of bars and eating places, but it's also the most touristy. 4 Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, ☏ +34 954 22 24 19. M-F 09:30-18:45, Sa Su 10:30-18:45; holidays closed. A 13th-century tower, the top of which is rumored to have once been covered in gold. It now houses the local maritime museum. €3 adults, €1.50 seniors/students/children 6-14, free children under 6; €2 for audioguide. 5 Alameda de Hercules. Authentic and less touristy plaza with local food opportunities. (updated Oct 2020) 6 Parque María Luisa (near the Plaza de España). Built for the 1929 Iber-Americano World's Fair and now landscaped with attractive monuments and museums. 7 Palacio de Las Dueñas (Las Duenas Palace), Calle Dueñas 5 (in the Historical Centre near Las Setas), ☏ +34 95 421 48 28, info@lasduenas.es. Apr-Sep: M-Sa 10:00-20:00; Oct-Mar: M-Sa 10:00-18:00. Las Dueñas is a palace belonging to the House of Alba. It was built in the 15th century, with Renaissance architecture style and Gothic-Mudejar influences. The palace is one of the major historic homes in the city. The poet Antonio Machado was born here in 1875. It is also said that Amerigo Vespucci married in this chapel at the beginning of the 16th century. The Palace has a great collection of paintings (Ribera, Luca Giordano, Neri de Bicci), ceramics, antique furniture and other decorative arts, sculptures of Ancient Rome and contemporary (Mariano Benlluire), Flemish tapestries (Willem de Pannemaker), mosaics, and many other pieces of art. An important site for understanding Andalusian customs and history. Fee: €10 with audio guide, ask for reduced prices. 8 Plaza de España. The site of the Spanish pavilion from the 1929 exhibition: the semi-circle has little ceramic maps of every region of Spain plus images of them and/or their history. It was also used in the filming of the Star Wars prequels. Visit it early in the morning on a weekday to see a long line of immigrants outside one of the government offices it now houses, or visit it right before it closes (officially at 22:00 but likely half an hour later) to see it completely empty and rather eerie. (updated Feb 2020) 9 Real Fábrica de Tabacos (Universidad de Sevilla), Calle San Fernando, 4, ☏ +34 954 55 10 00. During term time only: M-F 10:00-20:00, Sa 10:00-14:00. The main building of the University of Seville was once the Tobacco Factory of Seville, and was constructed between 1728 and 1771 by Sebastián Van der Bocht. Over the main entrance, the triangular façade ends in a statue of La Fama (fame). The tobacco factory was then the largest industrial building in Spain. A monopoly assured high income, which is reflected in the factory's architecture and surrounding gardens. Its chapel and prison complement the main building. In the interior you find impressive stairways, fountains and Patios. It was the setting for the first act of Bizet's opera Carmen. In 1953 the factory was converted into the main building of Seville University. Just behind the tobacco factory, the María Luisa Park borders the historic centre of Seville to the south. Although it's open to the public (as all university buildings are), the building is used for academic purposes. Be respectful: don't venture into closed rooms and disrupt lectures. 10 Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Palace of the Countess of Lebrija), Calle Cuna, 8, ☏ +34 954 22 78 02, fax: +34 954 50 10 29. M-F 10:30-19:30 (Jul Aug 09:00-15:00), Sa 10:00-19:00 (Jul Aug 10:00-14:00), Su 10:00-14:00 (Jul Aug closed). The palace is considered the 'best paved house-palace in Europe' owing to its collection of Roman mosaics and marble floors in the 'opus sectile' geometric style, which paved practically the whole of the ground floor. There is also a collection of well parapets, vases, amphora, columns and sculptures of incalculable worth. On the upper floor you can visit the residences previously inhabited by the Countess and her descendants, up to only a few years ago; extremely well-preserved, they are today filled with ornaments and furniture from all over the world, priceless artwork by Van Dyke, Bruegel, Alonso Cano, among others, as well as collections of porcelain and glass. €14. (updated Apr 2023) 11 Casa de Pilatos, Plaza de Pilatos, 1, ☏ +34 954 22 52 98, fax: +34 954 21 90 12, casapilatos@fundacionmedinaceli.org. Nov-Mar: daily 09:00-18:00, Apr-Oct: daily 09:00-19:00. A 16th-century palace and generally thought to be one of the best in the city. €8; free on Mondays after 15:00. 12 Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop's Palace), Plaza Virgen de los Reyes. It is in the historical section of the city and is home to various clergy and the Archbishop. On the outside you only can catch a glimpse of the patio but on the inside there are important works of art. Free. 13 Archivo General de Indias (General Archive of the Indies), Avenida de la Constitución, 3 (next to Alcazar), ☏ +34 954 50 05 28. Tu-Sa 09:30-17:00 (last entry: 16:30); Su and public holidays 10:00-14:00 (last entry: 13:30); M closed. This Renaissance building houses extensive archives relating to the Spanish conquest of the Americas, and is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Included in the collection are the diaries of Columbus. The archive hosts rotating special exhibits. Free. 14 Metropol Parasol, Plaza de la Encarnación (bus 27/32, metro T1), ☏ +34 606 63 52 14. daily 09:30-23:30. An enormous wooden structure, designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer-Hermann, inspired by the Cathedral of Seville and in the form of giant mushrooms. Known to locals as 'las setas' (the mushrooms), the structure covers the Central Market and the Antiquarium; the top level contains a restaurant and provides some of the best views of Seville. €15.

Museums and galleries

15 Museo de Bellas Artes, Plaza del Museo, 9, ☏ +34 955 542 942, fax: +34 955 542 148, museobellasartessevilla.ccd@juntadeandalucia.es. 1 Sep – 31 Jul: Tu-Sa 09:00-21:00, Su and holidays 09:00-15:00; 1-31 Aug: Tu-Sa 09:00-15:30. Considered by some as the second most important fine arts museum in Spain after the Prado in Madrid. The museum building is a former mercy convent renewed in the 17th century and the 15 exhibition rooms show a comprehensive picture of Sevillian art from the Gothic period to the early trends of the 20th century. The square just outside hosts an open-air art market on Sundays until around 13:30. Plenty of original paintings on local topics, although some not so interesting bits as well! €1.50; free for EU citizens. (updated Feb 2022) 16 Museo Arqueológico de Sevilla (Seville Archeology Museum), Plaza de América, ☏ +34 955 12 06 32, fax: +34 955 12 05 89, museoarqueologicosevilla.ccd@juntadeandalucia.es. 16 Sep – 31 May: Tu-Sa 10:00-20:30, Su and holidays 10:00-17:00; 1 Jun – 15 Sep: Tu-Sa 09:00-15:30, Su and holidays 10:00-17:00. It has one of the best collection of Roman-era artifacts in Spain, brought from nearby Italica. €1.50; free for EU citizens. 17 Museo Antiquarium, Plaza de la Encarnación (underground level of the Metropol Parasol), ☏ +34 955 471 581. Daily 11:00-14:00, 15:00-20:00. A museum with excavated Roman and Moorish remains, discovered during construction of the Metropol Parasol. You can enter for free if you show your ticket for the alcazar, even if the ticket is a few days old. €2. 18 Centro Andaluz de Arte Contempraneo (CAAC), Avda. Américo Vespucio, 2 (Bus C-1, C-2 & 5). Contemporary art museum in the former Carthusian monastery of Santa Maria of Las Cuevas, which has a fascinating history as a clay mine, monastery, and ceramics factory. The site and expansive grounds are worth a visit in their own right, including a striking rose window, industrial chimneys, and orange orchards. This was one of the places where the remains of Christopher Columbus were buried, before ending up in the Cathedral. Visit monument €1.80; Temporary exhibitions €1.80; Complete Visit €3.01. Free on Tu-Fr 19:00-21:00 Sa 11:00-21:00. (updated Oct 2025)

Do

Cruises, an hour in duration, leave from beneath the Torre del Oro and travel a circuit on the Guadalquivir river. Horse-drawn carriage rides found near the cathedral take you to the nearby park and other sites of interest. For the sake of the animals, try to avoid carriage rides in the heat of the day in summer.

Flamenco

Flamenco is very popular in Spain and is not just for tourists; however finding the right place is hard. Poke around the neighbourhood of El Arenal, following the sounds of flamenco music to find a place.

1 Museo del Baile Flamenco, Calle de Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, ☏ +34 954 34 03 11. Daily: museum 10:00-19:00, performances 19:00-20:00. Offers an experience for all the senses with ambiental music, videos, touch-screens and artifacts to be found in this 18th century building at the heart of the historical Barrio Santa Cruz. On Friday and Saturday evenings a spectacular show is hosted at a discounted price for visitors to the museum. Flamenco art and photography exhibitions are also on display and dance, singing, percussion and guitar lessons are offered. Museum: €10 adult, €8 senior, €6 child; performances: €20 adults, €14 senior, €12 child. 2 La Casa del Flamenco (Cultural Centre), Calle Ximénez de Enciso, 28, ☏ +34 955 02 99 99. Daily autumn/winter 19:30, spring/summer 21:00. A good spot to see real flamenco. €22. 3 La Carbonería, Calle Céspedes, 21 A (near the cathedral), ☏ +34 954 21 44 60. 21:30, 22:30, and 23:30 daily. Offers free flamenco shows nightly. Arrive early for good seats.

Shopping

Seville is home to many beautiful artifacts, some of the more popularly known are plates and Spanish tiles. Triana offers many ceramic factories where one can buy various tiles from authentic craftsmen. There are stores that custom design plates and tiles near the cathedral, especially in Calle Sierpes, but across the river in Triana are other worthwhile pottery stores. Depending on the time of year, but especially leading up to Christmas, there are a number of artisan fairs throughout the city.

Wander through an open-air market. Vendors in many parts of the city sell on the streets, but on Sunday, when everything else is closed, a few spots really fill up. One market is behind the Alcampo shopping centre at Ronda del Tamarguillo on Avenida de la Paz (Bus lines 30, 36 from Prado de San Sebastian), but it is easily outdone by a large flea market, selling clothes, furniture, trash, books, shoes, CDs, food, tools, and probably everything else just northwest of Triana near Avenida Carlos III (off of the left-hand side of most tourist maps).

Boutiques

1 Alianzas Breda, Calle Balbino Marrón 3, ☏ +34 954 04 21 60, hola@alianzasbreda.com. (updated Feb 2020)

Eat

Seville, like most Andalusian destinations, is known for its tapas. "Tapa", while it is associated with certain dishes, is actually a size and many restaurants or bars will offer a tapa, media ración (half serving, although sometimes enough to make a meal) and ración (serving) of the same dish. There are many great tapas places around the foot of the cathedral in the centre of town. You can't go wrong; simply order one of everything to find your favourite! Some typical tapas include tortilla española (potato omelet), pulpo gallego (Galician octopus), aceitunas (olives), patatas bravas (spicy potatoes), and queso manchego (sheep's milk cheese from the region of La Mancha in central Spain). Also be sure to try the jamón (ham), which you often see hanging above the bar. Most of the restaurants kitchens do not open before 20:30 in the evening. Though usually some easy to prepare meals are available before that time. As the quality of food is considered of a great importance in Seville, most local bars will have very good food at a low price. For an authentic and interesting meal, stop at one of the many bars, especially one which doesn't offer English menus (the prices are likely to be lower!). Some bars near the river, such as Pedalquivir and El Faro de Triana, offer a nice view but aren't as good of a deal in terms of the quality of the food. Another would be El Patio San Eloy (San Eloy 9, Sevilla) where the tapas can be a little hit and miss, but where the cool staggered seating steps, fabulous décor and fruity sangria; provide a wonderful respite from the heat of the day. A good deal can more easily be had at less characteristic places such as Sloppy Joe's Pizza Inn and Papasá. If you would like to purchase your own food, head down to one of the markets close to the centre of the city, such as in Plaza Encarnación. El Corte Inglés is a larger more popular department store that you can go to for almost every need. Don't eat the oranges from the trees on the street, they have been sprayed to repel birds and taste awful. If you're vegetarian, make sure you specify that you eat no fish or tuna as vegetarian only implies no meat here. The supermarkets M.A.S. and Dia are two very popular grocery stores and have everything you need for much less money than El Corte Ingles. Additionally, Dia has its own discount brand on a lot of items. Though they are closed on Sundays (like most everything else in Sevilla) they are found throughout the city and are very easily accessible.

Old town

1 Bodeguita Romero, Calle Harinas, 10, ☏ +34 954 229 556. Tu-F 09:00-17:00, 20:00-24:00; Sa 12:00-17:00, 20:00-24:00; Su 12:00-17:00. A classic neighbourhood bodega, very popular with locals and serving excellent tapas. (updated Nov 2024) 2 El Librero Tapas y Quesos, Pasaje de Andreu 4, Barrio de Santa Cruz (stone's throw from the Cathedral), ☏ +34 95 5276611, juanpedrogtena@hotmail.com. Does cheese dishes, ham dishes, tapas, menu del dia, etc. Very popular with locals. Menu del dia €13.60 (Sept 2020). Tapas for €2.60-3.40 (Oct 2021). 3 Los Coloniales, Plaza Cristo de Burgos 19. This tapas place is cozy and has only a few tables. Go there early to put your name on the board to get a table, then head inside for a couple of beers. Portions are large and food is very very good. Nice homemade desserts, too. (updated Nov 2024) 4 Duo Tapas, Calle Calatrava, 10 (in the Alameda district), ☏ +34 955 238 572. 13:30-16:30, 20:30-00:00 daily. This bar offers a nice atmosphere and good food. The price is average and the size of the tapas is fair, but it may be crowded, so it's better not to go in a hurry, as you may need to wait for a table. (updated Nov 2024) 5 Naturalmente, C. Rodrigo Caro, 7, ☏ +34 955 83 61 13. Su-Th 09:00-16:00, F Sa 19:00-22:00. Breakfast and lunch every day, with early dinner two nights a week - handy if you want to eat earlier than typical Spanish dining hours. The menu has a wide choice of breakfast "toasts", fruit and yoghurt bowls, cakes and pastries in the morning, changing to a range of lunch and dinner plates for lunch and dinner. There is a reasonable choice of vegan or vegetarian dishes, and overall the food is lighter than traditional Sevillian cuisine. The fruit juices are particularly tasty. €5-10 per dish. (updated Apr 2023)

Mid-range

6 Cafe-Bar Las Teresas, Calle Sta. Teresa, 2 (old town), ☏ +34 954 21 30 69. 10:00-00:00. A lively slice of ham heaven. Tourists and locals. If the sight of dead hogs hanging from the rafters offends you -- drink and eat elsewhere. (updated Sep 2022) 7 Restaurante Fez, Calle San Esteban, 27. Maroccan cuisine. Since you need a break from tapas. There are lots of other places serving Arabic food. (updated Sep 2022) 8 Habanita, Cjón. Golfo, 3. In the centre of the city. Quiet open air restaurant with a very good selection of vegetarian and vegan foods. (updated Sep 2022) 9 El Rinconcillo, C. Gerona, 40. The oldest tavern around, try the Espinacas con Garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) and Salmorejo, while watching the witty bartenders running around and writing your bill on the bar in front of you with, get this, chalk. (updated Sep 2022)

Drink

Coffee

Most cafés or cafeterías in Sevilla serve slightly longer shots of darkly roasted coffee, and even cortado is quite large compared to what one might expect to get e.g. in Valencia. Speciality coffee connoisseurs will probably prefer one of the cafés serving single-origin or organic coffee:

1 Parcería Café, Calle Calderón de la Barca 9. Situated near Mercado Feria, Parcería is a tiny café serving coffee from a local roaster. Laptops aren’t allowed, but the coffee is worth a walk from the city centre. 2 Utopía Café, Calle Fernán Caballero, 1. Hidden in a side street, Utopía is a takeaway-only café serving coffee from the same local roaster as Parcería. 3 Delatribu, Pje. Andreu, 3. A small takeaway café serving organic coffee and homemade pastry. 4 CafeTeaTe, Plaza del Altozano s/n Mercado de Triana, puesto 34-35. Located inside the Triana market, this café also serves breakfast sandwiches and other items. Their espresso shots are slightly longer than one might expect, but still decent. Make sure to ask about the current coffees when you order, they usually have one darker and one lighter roast.

Alcohol

The nightlife of Seville is fantastic; no other European city has so many bars per inhabitant than Seville. In summer go to Isla Cartuja and find out why the Spanish night doesn't stop before 07:00. There you can find plenty of open-air discothèques. Other nightlife spots include Calle Betis in Triana, La Alamede de Hércules, and Plaza Alfalfa.

Sleep

Most places have air conditioning but be sure to ask in summer, you'll need it. You will probably pass the siesta (early afternoon) in your room to escape the heat. Sevillanos are well-known for their nightlife so if you don't plan to be out at all hours yourself, then seek accommodation on a street without lots of bars and restaurants, or ask for a room set back from the street.

Budget

1 B&B Naranjo, C/ San Roque 11, ☏ +34 954 22 58 40. Budget hotel in old house near bus station, rooms are small with some on third floor, no elevator. Pleasant rooftop terrace. The a/c struggles in hot weather. B&B double €40. (updated Jan 2020) 2 Oasis Backpackers' Hostel, Calle Compañia 1, ☏ +34 955 22 82 87, sevilla@hostelsoasis.com. Clean friendly hostel with rooftop pool. Daily activities such as walking tours, Spanish classes, bar games. Dorm €25. (updated Jan 2020) 3 Oasis Backpackers' Palace Seville, Calle Almirante Ulloa 1, ☏ +34 955 26 26 96. Dorms in all sizes, lockers to put your backpack in and free linen. Roof-top terrace with chill-out bar to overlook Seville, guest kitchen, free breakfast and free internet/ wifi. Dorm €15. (updated Jan 2020) Sevilla Inn (Sevilla Backpackers Hostel), C/ Angeles 11, ☏ +34 605 90 32 35, bookingsevilla@innhostels.com. Great location 100 m east of Giralda. Spacious terrace with views of the cathedral. Dorm €15. (updated Jan 2020) 4 Triana Hostel (Triana Backpackers), C/ Rodrigo de Triana 69, ☏ +34 954 45 99 60, sevillatriana@gmail.com. Clean well-run hostel, painted ceramic tiles, and green plants among cozy sofas. Nice roof terrace with hammocks. Rooms are average-small for a hostel with creaky iron bunk beds, safety boxes and short of space. Free breakfast and 3 (slow) computers with internet access. It's 3 blocks from the river in a nice neighbourhood with narrow streets and old houses. Dorm €18. (updated Jan 2020) 5 Pension Vergara, Calle Ximenez de Enciso 11, Barrio de Santa Cruz (stone's throw from the Cathedral), ☏ +34 954215668, +34 657896459, pensionvergara@pensionvergara.com. Check-in: 12:30, check-out: 12:00. Simple pension but in a converted 15th-century convent. Single room with shared bathroom, €15. (updated Sep 2020)

Mid-range

6 Hotel Pasarela, Avenida de la Borbolla 11 (100 m east of Plaza de Espana), ☏ +34 954 415 511. Clean friendly place just behind the big plaza. B&B double €50. (updated Jan 2020) 7 Hostal Callejón del Agua, Calle Corral del Rey 23, ☏ +34 954 21 20 98. Basic hotel, great location, very small rooms, street noise can be a problem. B&B double €70. (updated Jan 2020) 8 Hotel Abanico, Calle Aguilas 17, ☏ +34 954 21 32 07. 22-room hotel in 18th century town house, small rooms but value for money, good location. Watch your step as you come out as traffic hurtles along the narrow street. Double (room only) €55. (updated Jan 2020) 9 Hotel Abril, C/ Jerónimo Hernández 20, ☏ +34 95 422 90 46, info@hotelabril.com. In a quiet street near Encarnacion Square 500 m north of centre. Small and simple hotel but clean, comfy and good value for money. B&B double €40. (updated Jan 2020) 10 Hotel Bellavista Sevilla, Avenida de Bellavista 153 (10 km south of city on bus & metro route), ☏ +34 954 69 35 00, info@hotelbellavistasevilla.com. Mid-range out-of-town hotel opposite hospital complex with 104 rooms with a/c. Has a café with outdoor terrace and à la carte restaurant, 24 hours reception, meeting rooms, pool and parking. Pets are allowed though some visitors have had problems over this. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2020) 11 Hotel Itaca, Calle Santillana 5-7, ☏ +34 954 22 81 56, fax: +34 954 21 27 47, sevilla@itacahoteles.com. Small hotel north of centre, tiny rooms, several are blind. Mostly clean and comfy but they get a lot of street noise. B&B double €80. (updated Jan 2020) 12 Hotel Las Casas de los Mercaderes, C/ Álvarez Quintero 9-13, ☏ +34 955 136 211, fax: +34 955 136 008, recepcion.mercaderes@aa-hoteles.com. Comfy 3-star in great location 300 m north of Giralda. Some street noise, and don't bring a car to this pedestrianised area. B&B double €85. (updated Jan 2020) 13 Hotel Monte Carmelo, C/ Virgen de la Victoria 7 (Los Remedios, west bank of river), ☏ +34 954 27 90 00. Efficient modern hotel, 10 min walk to Plaza de España. B&B double €110. (updated Jan 2020) 14 Hotel Monte Triana, Calle Clara de Jesús Montero, Triana (West of river, 1 km from old centre), ☏ +34 954 34 31 11. Simple hotel, clean and friendly, has parking. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2020) 15 Hotel Murillo, Calle Lope de Rueda 7, ☏ +34 954 21 60 95, fax: +34 954 21 96 16, reservas@hotelmurillo.com. Small, clean friendly place in the Juderia. Small rooms and sometimes noisy but value for money. B&B double €50. (updated Jan 2020) NH Plaza de Armas, C/ Marqués de Paradas (opposite main bus station), ☏ +34 954 90 19 92, nhplazadearmas@nh-hotels.com. Efficient modern hotel on west side of city centre. Rooftop pool, Wi-Fi, meeting rooms and a restaurant. B&B double €120. (updated Jan 2020) NH Viapol Hotel, Balbino Marrón 9 (San Bernado metro stop), ☏ +34 954 64 52 54, fax: +34 954 64 66 68, nhviapol@nh-hotels.com. Modern hotel 1 km east of old city, airport bus and other transport stops just outside. B&B double €120. (updated Jan 2020) 16 Hotel San Gil, C/ Parras 28, ☏ +34 954 90 68 11. 4-star going on 3, gets mixed reviews for comfort and service, 1 km north of city centre. Small rooftop pool and sun terrace. B&B double €65. (updated Jan 2020) Singular Apartments, C/ Escarpín 1, 2ª planta, ☏ +34 954 21 01 02, info@singularapartments.com. Fully equipped apartments in 3 locations with large rooms and kitchens, also well suited for families or small groups. Room €70. (updated Jan 2020)

Go next

Sierra de Aracena. Towards the North West of Sevilla, it is one of the most famous places for Jamón in Spain and full of lovely small villages to discover. Great for walking around, eating and exploring this Natural Park. There are numerous buses from Plaza de Armas Bus Station. Sierra Norte. Towards the North of Sevilla, it makes for a nice change from the monotonous landscape of the Guadalquivir Valley. It is an area of steep relief, olive groves, and deep river valleys. Deer, wild boar and other large animals are often seen from the car. The area is well known for its cured meats. Córdoba: remarkable old city with its moorish Mezquita, white-walled Jewish quarter and Medina Azahara archeological site; less than an hour by train. Granada has the must-see Alhambra palace and gardens. Cádiz has an attractive old town, the seaport that Christopher Columbus sailed from. It's easily reached by train or car. Huelva. Discovering a 19th-century British town in the middle of this Andalusian city is definitely remarkable. Huelva has an interesting history. Columbus left from Puerto de Palos and La Rabida Monastery, where he spent a few months it is well worth the visit. The wide and white beaches around, like Punta Umbria or Islantilla are also a good reason to visit and try fresh fish. Buses from Damas Bus Company every hour from Plaza de Armas Bus Station. Italica. A partially excavated Roman city, only a brief bus ride from Seville on the M-172 (from Plaza de Armas Bus Station). Most of it is lost under the village of Santiponce, but several streets and the footings of houses and public buildings with mosaic tiled floors can be seen. The highlight is one of the largest known Roman amphitheatres with seats for 25,000. In the summer, cruises are offered from beneath the Torre de Oro to Sanlucar de Barrameda at the mouth of the river. Madrid: the buzzing capital is less than 3 hours away by train.