Melbourne

Understand

History

The British settlement of Melbourne commenced in 1835 when settlers from Tasmania led by John Batman "purchased" land on Port Phillip Bay and the Yarra River from the local Aboriginal people. The streets of central Melbourne were carefully laid out in 1837, with some streets 30 metres wide. Initially dubbed Batmania after its founder, the settlement was soon renamed Melbourne after William Lamb, 2nd Viscount Melbourne, the British Prime Minister at that time. The first British lieutenant-governor, Charles La Trobe, arrived in 1839 – his Cottage still stands and can be visited in the Kings Domain. 1851 was a landmark for Melbourne — the colony of Victoria was separated from New South Wales and very soon after, gold was discovered in Victoria, sparking a huge gold rush. The gold rush history can be seen at the Gold Treasury Museum, housed in the Treasury Building built in 1858. Gold was the catalyst for several decades of prosperity lasting through to the late 1880s and examples of the ornate Victorian-era structures built during this time still stand. Throughout the gold and building booms, Melbourne managed to retain its many spacious parks and gardens that remain to this day. In 1888, the boom collapsed and Victoria suffered through the depression of the 1890s. In 1901, the British colonies of Australia federated and Melbourne became the temporary capital of Australia, with the Federal Parliament meeting in the Parliament House of Victoria until 1927 when the new Federal capital of Canberra was founded. After World War II, Melbourne grew rapidly, with its mainly Anglo-Celtic population boosted by immigration from Europe, particularly from Greece and Italy. Today Melbourne has the biggest Greek population (over 800,000) of any city outside Greece and the biggest Italian population (over 230,000) of any city outside Italy. The significant pre-war Jewish population was also boosted after the war. From the mid-1970s, many immigrants came from Southeast Asia, particularly Vietnam and Cambodia. Melbourne has had a Chinese population since the gold rush of the 1850s; Melbourne's former Chinese name was "New Gold Mountain" (新金山), in reference to the "Old Gold Mountain" of San Francisco. Chinatown has existed from that time but the population of Chinese and other East Asians has also been boosted by immigration. New highrise buildings replaced many of Melbourne's interesting old structures in the construction boom of the 1970s and 80s. Melbournians belatedly recognised the loss of their architectural heritage and steps were taken to protect what was left. Construction of the huge Crown Casino (briefly the largest casino in the world) in the 1990s introduced glitz and gambling to the CBD. Melbourne's development continues in the 2000s with the opening of the Melbourne Museum, Federation Square and the Docklands precinct.

Culture

Melbourne is the cultural capital of Australia, with its many art galleries, film festivals, orchestras, choral and opera productions, vibrant live music scene, and a strong food, wine and coffee culture. People in Melbourne tend to dress up more than the northern states - partly due to the colder climate. Many bars and clubs have strict dress regulations, such as requiring collars and dress shoes for men. Particular cultural events to note include the Melbourne International Film Festival in August, the International Art Festival in October, and the Melbourne Comedy Festival in April. There are also many concerts and exhibitions throughout the year. In addition to the Melbourne Museum, there are special museums dedicated to subjects such as science, immigration, Chinese history, Jewish history, sport, racing, film and moving image, railways, police, fire brigades and banking. Melbourne also has a strong subcultural scene appealing especially to young people, particularly in the suburbs of Carlton, Fitzroy, Collingwood and Abbotsford, where subcultural bars, cafes and art galleries are common. Check out the Abbotsford Convent and Brunswick Street Fitzroy.

LGBT+

Melbourne is generally welcoming of LGBT+ people, who often live in the city with few difficulties. While often referred to as Australia's cultural capital, Melbourne also draws much more influence from Europe in its architecture, fashion and food – and for the gay traveller it may feel like a more chilled out and refined experience after the glitz of Sydney. Melbourne is a city of less ostentatious delights than its northern cousin, regularly voted the world's most livable city – so set some time aside to relax and explore. Melbourne's main annual community events are the Midsumma Festival, which has dozens of activities including the city's main pride march, and the Melbourne Queer Film Festival. The gay scene in Melbourne is, for the most part, in the inner northern and inner southern suburbs like Fitzroy and St. Kilda, the latter of which is where the Midsumma Festival's pride march takes place. There are plenty of options for queer people to go clubbing or to grab a drink in both hot-spots.

Getting there

By plane

The city is primarily serviced by Melbourne Airport at Tullamarine which has international flights and a comprehensive domestic schedule. Avalon Airport is more distant, partway between Melbourne and Geelong, and hosts only a couple of domestic routes (Jetstar to Sydney & Gold Coast). Finally, five regional destinations can be reached on light aircraft from Essendon Airport (MEB IATA): King Island and Flinders Island in Tasmania, and Dubbo, Orange and Wollongong in NSW. For general aviation, the aforementioned Essendon Airport as well as Moorabbin Airport (MBW IATA) in the southeastern suburbs of the urban area, are the airports of choice.

Melbourne Airport

Main article: Melbourne Airport Melbourne Airport, also known as Tullamarine Airport, (MEL IATA) is 22 km north-west of the CBD in the Hume region. There are regular flights from all major Australian and New Zealand cities. There are direct flights from Asia, Europe, North America and South America. The SkyBus service runs regularly to the City, St Kilda, Mornington Peninsula and Western suburbs, costing about $24 one way if you book online, or $40 return. For travellers on a budget, Melbourne Airport can also be accessed by public bus from Broadmeadows station. There is no train link to the airport, but multiple proposals have been put forward for decades. A taxi into the Melbourne CBD will cost around $75-100. There are also Uber ranks outside Terminal 4 and Terminal 2 which will cost between $50-70.

Avalon Airport

Avalon Airport (AVV IATA) is a mainly domestic airport 55 km south-west of Melbourne in Lara, near Geelong. Although much further than Melbourne Airport, fares from Avalon are sometimes considerably cheaper. The terminals are generally very simple, with just an ATM, car hire desks and baggage carousels. Other facilities include a cafe, bar and a video arcade room. There are several flights in and out of Avalon each day, with flights to Sydney and the Gold Coast operated by Jetstar (which also flies to Melbourne Airport). The SkyBus service runs to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne's CBD via the outer western suburb of Werribee, meeting every flight arrival and departure. The transfer costs $22 one-way for an adult, and $10 for a child (4–14 years). Other than the coach, there is no public transport; Lara Station is 8 km from the terminal, a taxi to this station costs about $20. A taxi to the city from this airport could cost upwards of $100. The driving time from Avalon Airport to Melbourne's CBD is about 45 minutes in good traffic conditions. Avalon Airport is also convenient for visiting Geelong and the Great Ocean Road.

Getting around

Melbourne's CBD is laid out in an orderly grid system, similar to Manhattan, meaning that navigating the CBD is easy. Melbourne has a comprehensive public transport system consisting of trams, trains, and buses. Trams criss-cross the city, trains extend to the outer suburbs, and buses cover the remaining destinations.

By public transport

Transport Victoria coordinates all train, tram and bus services within the state. The website and app provide a journey planner, timetables, maps and disruption information. Apple Maps and Google Maps also provide a journey planner and disruption information. Services generally operate between 5AM and midnight Monday–Saturday and after 8AM Sunday. A Night Network operates after midnight Friday–Saturday. Most of the train and bus network is wheelchair and pram accessible. Trams are only accessible via a low floor tram at accessible stops, mostly in the CBD and St Kilda.

Fares

There are three ways to pay for your journey:

See

Melbourne is a great city for arts, culture, dining, and events. Visitors frequently comment on the "good vibe" of the city, which can only be understood by experiencing it for yourself. There are a wide and varied assortment of attractions and sights, with something for every traveller. Most are in the CBD, in close reach of public transport. Melbourne is also a good base for experiencing the other attractions of Victoria, most of which can be reached on day trips. Melbourne is Australia's best city for street art – refer to street art in Melbourne for more information.

Sights & museums

Melbourne's museums are generally well-regarded and worth a visit if you have time to spare. The Melbourne Museum and National Gallery of Victoria often have interesting temporary exhibitions. Visit the State Library of Victoria, and its magnificent reading halls. The La Trobe Reading Room boasts a large domed study area with an art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions on its balconies. Melbourne is an excellent place to master your photography skills. So many places to take a fantastic picture. Visit one of Melbourne's many arcade and laneways, tucked away from the main city streets and avenues. One of these, the Cathedral Arcade, forms a narrow laneway, connecting Swanston Street to Flinders Lane in the central business district. It is a T-shaped arcade, however one of the laneways terminates inside the Nicholas building. Visit the Eureka Skydeck for the best view of the city on level 88 of the Eureka Tower. Or indulge in fine dining by making a reservation at level 89 of the Eureka Tower. Visit any or all of the three amazing zoos. At the Melbourne Zoo, visitors have the additional opportunities to interact, pet, and take close-up photography with a number of the animals, including kangaroos, meerkats, lemurs, and others. Take a free tram ride around the city on the free city circle line (Route 35).

Do

Food & coffee

Visit the Queen Victoria Market – it stretches over two blocks and holds the title of the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere. Walk along Swanston Street to find a wide variety of eateries of all types, from Vietnamese to Italian. Kick back at one of Melbourne's fantastic cafes in the CBD (Degraves St, The Causeway, and other laneways are fantastic for this), South Yarra (Chapel Street) or Fitzroy (Brunswick Street, Smith Street). For upmarket restaurants, visit Flinders Lane and select from more expensive, sit-down food and drink.

Cinemas, music & entertainment

See interesting films at the Art Deco-styled Astor Theatre in St Kilda. There are several moonlight cinema programs in summer. The Melbourne International Film Festival is on in August. Alternately, visit the Cinema Nova on Lygon Street (tram 1 or 8) on a Monday for $6 films before 4PM. The Comic's Lounge has comedy shows and dinner. Melbourne has an exceptionally vibrant live music scene. Many bars and pubs will have copies of the free magazines "Beat" and "Inpress" which provide local gig guides. Fitzroy, Collingwood and St. Kilda are generally your best bets for seeing some of the great local talent Melbourne has to offer. Venues where you generally can't go wrong include: "The Evelyn", Hotel Esplanade aka "The Espy", The Corner Hotel in Richmond & The Northcote Social Club. Have a laugh at the Melbourne International Comedy Festival in March/April each year Visit one of Melbourne's outdoor cinemas in the warmer months of the year (November to April)

Outdoor activity

Visit the beach (St Kilda, Brighton, or Frankston on the east side. Williamstown or Altona on the west side.) If you have the gear, go snorkelling. Melbourne has a surprising number and variety of snorkelling spots all around the bay. For inspiration see this interactive map. Go hiking on scenic Mt Dandenong -Challenge yourself physically on the 1000 steps, or visit the cute towns of Sassafras or Olinda, or take a ride on the century-old Puffing Billy steam train Chill out in the Botanical Gardens or one of the many parks (Albert Park, Carlton Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens) See Melbourne's Yarra River by kayak

Shopping

Shopping hours in metro Melbourne are typically 7 days a week, 9AM–5:30PM weekdays and 9AM (maybe later)–5PM weekends. Most suburban shopping centres such as Chadstone have later closing hours on Thursdays and Fridays – mostly up to 9PM. Supermarkets have extended hours 7 days, the majority opening at 7AM and closing at midnight or 1AM; there are also many 24-hour supermarkets. Alcohol in Victoria can be purchased at licensed shops/venues, and supermarkets often have an adjoining bottle shop that closes earlier than the supermarket. Some stock alcohol in the supermarket, if they close at the same time as their licence. You must be over 18 years old to purchase alcohol. Most bottleshops close by 10PM to midnight (even on weekends), but some open until 3AM (e.g. on Riversdale road in Booroondara and Russell St Melbourne), and 24-hour bottleshops on both Chapel and Lygon streets, in Stonnington and Melbourne respectively.

City shopping

Melbourne is known as the fashion capital of Australia with numerous malls and boutique-lined streets. In the CBD itself, Little Collins Street is home to some of the world's top designers and fashion houses; Collins Street also boasts other high end shops such as Louis Vuitton and Hermès. Brunswick Street (Fitzroy), and the southern end of Chapel Street in Prahran/Windsor, have clusters of stores selling an eclectic mix of vintage, rave, retro and alternative gear such as Shag, Fat Helen's and Beaut Vintage to shop around. Melbourne Central is another shopping mall based in the city, adjacent to the underground station of the same name. The Bourke Street Mall with the department store David Jones, as well as the flagship store of Myer, Australia's largest department store chain, is another city-central shopping hub. For the bargain shopper, there is a DFO Outlet Mall (Direct Factory Outlet) located on the Southbank, next to the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre (MCEC), a short walk from Southern Cross Railway Station. There are also camping/military surplus stores on Elizabeth Street for backpacking essentials.

Suburban shopping

Bridge Road in Richmond is a strip where warehouse direct outlets rule and no-one pays recommended retail price. Chapel Street in South Yarra is a favourite among the locals, with its spread of exclusive boutiques, cafes and well established chain stores. There are also several huge shopping complexes in the outer suburbs, such as Chadstone and Southland (Cheltenham) in the South-East. Doncaster Shoppingtown, Eastland (Ringwood) and Knox City are in the outer East. Northland in the north, Highpoint in the west. Melbourne is also home to many of Australia's largest shopping centres with hundreds of stores, including Chadstone Shopping Centre in Malvern East (the largest shopping centre in the Southern Hemisphere), Highpoint Shopping Centre in Maribyrnong, Knox City Shopping Centre in Wantirna South, and Fountain Gate Shopping Centre in Casey.

Eat

For the culinary traveller, Melbourne is one of the best destinations in the world. There is an abundance of affordable, high-quality restaurants representing almost every cuisine. Eating out is cheaper than in Western Europe but not as affordable as North America. The service in Australian restaurants may be more discreet than many North Americans may be used to. Service staff in Australia are paid considerably more than their North American counterparts so tipping is not customary, though you may choose to give a tip if the service was exemplary. Excellent eateries can be found sprinkled throughout all of the inner (and some outer) suburbs, while certain neighbourhoods have become magnets for residents and restaurants of particular countries. A large range of restaurants and cafes offering high-quality food, and representing various cultures and countries, are scattered throughout the Central City, Southbank, Carlton (mostly Italian and touristy), Victoria Street in Richmond (many low cost popular Vietnamese and South East Asian restaurants), Docklands, South Yarra and Prahran. In Central City, the Queen Victoria Market's prepared-food stalls are also popular places to grab a quick breakfast or lunch. Sydney Road in Brunswick and Coburg is known for its many Middle Eastern, Lebanese, Greek and Turkish restaurants. The popular tourist area of St Kilda offers a large range of good quality restaurants and cafes, especially on Acland Street, and Fitzroy Street. English-style fish and chip shops are scattered through the suburbs – particularly in bayside areas. Souvlaki/kebabs are very popular in Melbourne, with plentiful outlets in any neighbourhood you could visit; local terminology is split between 'souvlaki' and 'kebab' to refer to the wrap, depending on the area's immigrant mix. A local specialty is the halal snack pack (HSP), kebab meat and sauce served over chips (fries in American terminology). Japanese nori rolls and sushi is very popular and many stores through the city and suburbs sell these items.

African

There is a concentration of African cafes in Nicholson St, Footscray and Racecourse Road, Flemington. Most serve a small range of Ethiopian cuisine and coffee, and are frequented by the local African residents. The Abyssinian is a well-regarded Eritrean/Ethiopian restaurant popular for locals and tourists for a more elaborate dinner. The stewed foods are served on a large pancake (injera) in the middle of the table. Everyone eats with their hands which is messy but fun.

Australian

"Australian cuisine" is a nebulous concept that may include traditional native foodstuffs and more modern cafe infusions of international influences. Items such an emu and kangaroo meat are unusual, and are most likely to be found only at the high-end fine dining restaurants as a speciality item. You can however find great kangaroo steaks at the Napier Hotel (Napier St, Fitzroy) for around $20, or at the Edinburgh Castle pub on Sydney Rd, Brunswick for around $10. Meat pies are available from bakeries and convenience stores.

Drink

Melbournians often draw a distinction between 'bars', meaning the small watering holes described above, and 'pubs', which are larger establishments in the usual Australian or British sense of the word. Melbourne's pubs, particularly those in the city and inner suburbs, usually serve restaurant-standard food and a wide range of local and imported beers. Pubs usually offer lunch from approximately noon to 2PM, and reopen their kitchens for dinner from approximately 6-10PM.

Pubs

Gay, lesbian and transgender party goers are welcome everywhere as Melbournians are on the whole very tolerant and welcoming people. Perhaps the one bad thing is that nothing really starts happening until midnight! The CBD has a number of pubs, the most famous being the Young and Jackson. Melbourne is also famous for its many trendy bars in the CBD. Most of these, however, are down narrow alleys and streets, and are therefore hard to find unless you know where you are going. The inner northern suburbs, such as Collingwood and Fitzroy cater for the young, laid-back, and bohemian crowd. Here you will find lots of live music, cheaper prices, and a relaxed atmosphere. Head for Brunswick and Gertrude Streets in Fitzroy and Smith Street, Collingwood for cafes, bars and live music, while Lygon Street, Carlton has a range of Italian restaurants and cafes with a student vibe, as it's located near the University of Melbourne. Victoria Street, North Richmond is the heart of Melbourne's Vietnamese community, with many cheap and cheerful restaurants serving good food.

Bars and clubs

Melbourne nightlife is 24 hours, loud, colourful and anything goes. Door policies can be strict but once inside high quality entertainment is guaranteed. DJ's, live music, artists and beautiful people can be found. There truly is something for everyone and every taste. It has a massive live music scene, with many inner-suburbs pubs catering to many genres, with drink and food specials all week. The key is to find one you like the most! Alongside its many clubs, Melbourne is also a fast-rising festival city. Global event companies such as ID&T, Global Gathering, Ministry of Sound and Trance Energy have begun taking notice of the city and bringing their events. Chapel Street/Toorak Road in South Yarra and Prahran has the most glamorous bars and clubs. Here, expect high prices, strict dress codes, and beautiful people who want to be seen partying with the best. St. Kilda has a little bit of everything. With its proximity to the beach, it is often regarded as the Melbourne suburb that feels most like Sydney. The past decade has seen a revival of Melbourne's inner-city bar scene, with dozens of weird and wonderful watering holes opening up within forgotten alleyways and anonymous lanes of the CBD (CBD). Melbourne also has its fair share of stylish places to drink, although the better ones can be hard to find. The theory seems to be: the harder your bar is to find, the more people will talk about it. Secrets are tucked around areas like Prahran, South Yarra and many other areas. However, there are plenty of alleyway bars, once you find one they seem to pop up everywhere you look. Melbourne's clubs often market a members only rule which can upset your more upmarket traveler. The rule is in place to prevent fighting and unappealing groups of men entering a nice club and destroying the atmosphere. Australian licensing laws are very similar to those in the UK, i.e. you are not allowed to be drunk on licensed premises. In practice though, Melbourne venues and bouncers draw the line very low. Ejection from a premises can be expected for fighting, vomiting, or frequent falling over. Some pubs and clubs are quicker to eject patrons than others, but it's only ever a short walk to another. Licensing is more liberal than what one may be used to, as you can still expect to find a drink past 2AM. This has led to a culture of late-night drinking where some venues won't get busy until some time after 11PM, especially during summer.

Sleep

Budget

Melbourne's budget accommodation options can be found in two main areas, namely in the CBD and in the seaside suburb of St Kilda. However, outside these two areas, there are also several popular budget options in bohemian Fitzroy, South Melbourne, and Windsor. From January to March during international events such as the Australian Open (January) and the Australian Grand Prix (late March) hostel accommodation is booked out and some hostels raise their prices. Be sure to book ahead.

Mid-range

Accommodation in this price bracket can mostly be found in the CBD. There are however options scattered throughout the suburbs.

Splurge

The CBD remains the main area for this category of accommodation.

Stay safe

The Australia-wide emergency number is 000, with the ambulance service, fire department and police being available through this number.

Walking

It is important to take care around tram lines. Trams are heavy and it can take over 100 metres for a tram to safely stop. Even if a tram has passed, look carefully both ways, as trams will often run nose-to-tail on busy corridors like Swanston Street. Many tram stops further from the CBD often require walking on to the road. There is often traffic around trams, so be careful crossing if running to catch a tram.

Driving

Driving in Melbourne can be nerve-wracking due to the presence of trams. You may have heard of the infamous "hook turn" that requires you to turn right from the left lane. These turns are predominantly in the CBD and become rarer as you head towards the suburbs. If driving, it is illegal to U-turn across tram tracks or pass a tram while the doors are open, and passengers are disembarking. Toll roads will be marked by blue signs with gold text indicating that you will be charged. Any electronic toll collection tag in Australia works on toll roads in Melbourne.

Go next

Melbourne is fairly centrally located on the coast of Victoria, and there are many natural and man-made attractions that make for a nice day trip. Another way to visit regional Victoria is utilising the public transport system. Regular train journeys leave from Southern Cross station. Regional attractions include:

Melbourne outskirts

These places are within an hour's drive of central Melbourne.

Werribee — historic mansion and open-range zoo Dandenong Ranges — national park, gardens, historic steam railway Wine-tasting in the Yarra Valley, Healesville and the Healesville Sanctuary Port Phillip Bay scenic drive and the Mornington Peninsula — the seaside resort locations of Sorrento and Portsea, offering both bayside and surf beaches Warburton and Mount Donna Buang — winter sightseeing snow

More pictures of Melbourne

From this destination's category on Wikimedia Commons. Each photograph is credited to its own author under its own licence.