Goa

Understand

Goa was a colony of Portugal from 1510 to 1961, when the Indian army was sent in to take control in Operation Vijay. This annexation is referred to as the Liberation of Goa in India, and the Invasion of Goa in Portugal. Goa's heart is in its villages. Prominent Goan architect Gerard Da Cunha has argued elsewhere that, unlike others, Goans don't live in the cities. They mostly live in the villages and travel to work. Not surprisingly, it's the villages of Goa which hold both charm and character. Living in Goa can be tough and slow, but holidaying there is just fine. Take an aimless ride on a relaxed evening or a languid morning, and surprise yourself with the charms of the Goan village. Unlike urban areas, the villages tend to be neat and clean, friendly and even good value-for-money, except maybe in those areas where there are a lot of tourists already. Goa has many faces. The coast varies from the "hinterland". Some villages such as Assolna, Benaulim, Britona, Cortalim, Curtorim, Raia, Goa Velha, Mollem, Usgao, Reis Magos, Savoi Verem and Shiroda may offer something more unusual, but this list is far from complete. Villages such as these are often close to the places where most tourists stay, so a quest for accommodation is not likely to be a problem. Goa is visibly different from the rest of India, owing to Portuguese rule, which isolated it from the rest of India for 451 years. The Goan population is a mixture of Hindus and Roman Catholics, the distribution being approximately 65% Hindu and 24% Christian. There is also a smaller Muslim population. Despite this, communal violence has been virtually non-existent and Goa is regarded as one of the most peaceful states in India. Goa's staple diet is fish, curry and rice.

Culture

Goan culture has been shaped mainly by the Hindu and Catholic population. People are mostly easy going ('sossegado' in Portuguese). With better connectivity by air and rail, there has been an influx of people from neighbouring states that has brought with it different cultures. Many Indians from other states have come and settled here. Goan Catholics generally acknowledge their Hindu roots and carry traces of a caste system within their beliefs. It is recorded that in many instances the Hindus left one son behind to convert and thus continue to own and manage the common properties while the rest of the family preferred to emigrate to neighbouring areas along with the idols representing their Hindu deities. Over the years large numbers of Catholics have emigrated to the major commercial cities of Bombay and Pune and from there onward to East Africa (to the then-Portuguese colonies of Angola and Mozambique), to Portugal, and towards the end of the 20th century to Canada and Australia. Many old Goan ancestral properties therefore lie either abandoned or mired in legal tangles brought about by disagreements within the widely dispersed inheritors of the property. Expat Goans have been returning to their home state, often purchasing holiday homes along the coast (which are then converted into 'rent back' apartments, hired out to short-staying tourists by agents). The best time of the year to visit Goa is mid-November to mid-February when the weather is comfortable, dry and pleasant.

Arts & culture

Goa has more than its fair share of museums, art galleries and libraries. You will find many government run museums in Panaji, including the Goa State museum, the Kala Academy, the Central Library and the Goa Science Centre. In Vasco da Gama, you can find the Naval Aviation Museum, a great place to see vintage aircraft. Old Goa is a great place to see examples of Christian religious art, and sometimes, secular art. There you can find the Christian Art Museum and also a modern art gallery containing the works of surrealist Dom Martin. In Mormugao, you can find the Religious Museum of the Blessed Joseph Vaz. The Xavier Centre of Historical Research at Bardez also has a gallery on Christian Art. Attracted by Goa's bohemian life, many artists, painters and architects have made their home here and proceeded to set up art galleries and museums. An example of this is Subodh Kerkar's art gallery in Candolim. Benaulim also has the Goa Chitra Museum, containing the largest collection of ethnographic artifacts ever assembled in one place. Goa has become India's creative hub, attracting contemporary artists, designers and creative coders and engineers. In this context, India's first Museum for Technology and Art, called Sensistan, chose Goa as its location. This museum features new media, light and sound installations, Virtual Reality applications and unique space design across 700 m² indoors and 1000 m² outdoors. This digital playground for all ages is located in Badem, Assagao, between Vagator and Chapora. Other museums of note are Gerard da Cunha's architectural museum Houses of Goa in Benaulim, Big Foot(aka Ancestral Goa) at Loutolim, Salcette, an attempt to illustrate and recreate Goa's traditional past. There's even a vintage-cars collection of sorts -- Ashvek Vintage World, in Nuvem, Salcette.

What's inside

By Indian standards, Goa is a very small state with only two districts - North and South Goa. These districts are together further divided into 12 talukas. These divisions, however, don't make much sense for a traveller. North and South Goa are similar, and each has its own "coastal" and "interior" areas. The major division in Goa is between the central coastal areas where the beaches are, and the hinterland. The coastal areas were under colonial rule for longer, reflecting more of Portugal's influence, including having a relatively large Catholic population. The interior is more Hindu, and has more protected forest areas, mining zones and villages.

1 Panaji — also called Panjim, and known as Nova Goa during Portuguese rule – the state capital. 2 Mapusa — the town is in North Goa and around 13 km from Panji. Mapusa is one of the important market centres in Goa 3 Margao — second largest city, commercial and cultural capital of Goa 4 Old Goa — it is home of 16th-century churches, convents and monuments 5 Vasco da Gama — a populous town in the south Goa district of Marmagoa Taluka Goa also has other smaller, charming and sometimes crowded towns such as those along the beach belt (Calangute, Candolim), and in the interior (Chaudi in Canacona, Sanvordem-Quepem, Bicholim, Pernem town, etc.) Some of these are gateways to the nearby touristic areas. In addition, Goa has nearly 350 villages, often scenic, with each having its own character.

1 The Garça Branca Ayurvedic Botanical Garden, Loutolim — 2 Karai Garden, Shiroda — 3 Mollem National Park Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary and Mollem National Park is a pristine area diverse in flowering plant life and vegetation is habitat for many mammals, birds, butterflies and reptiles. The largest protected area in Goa. One can also find the Tambdi Surla Temple, Tambdi Falls and other attractions.

Getting there

Goa can be reached by two airports, by train, and by the many buses connecting the state with cities in India (primarily Mumbai, Mangalore and Bangalore). If you are travelling from Mumbai or Pune, car travel will provide you a journey through breathtaking scenery of the Konkan area.

By plane

The 1 Dabolim Airport (GOI IATA), in Vasco da Gama is Goa's main airport. Some airlines fly directly to Goa, but most international flights arrive via Mumbai. Air India has international flights to Kuwait and UAE twice a week. Air Arabia has discount flights to Sharjah. Qatar Airways has flights to Doha, along with convenient connections to Western Europe, Africa and USA. Flights can be chartered to the United Kingdom, Germany, Russia and Switzerland. Many domestic airlines have daily flights to and from Bangalore, Delhi, Hyderabad, Mumbai, Pune, Chennai, Jaipur, Ahmedabad and Kozhikode (Calicut). On arrival, take pre-paid taxis from Dabolim Airport. A yellow pre-paid taxi booth can be found 30 m on the left when you exit the main building. There is also a pre-paid taxi stand in the international arrival area. Rates are slightly cheaper than the yellow cabs. Many resorts pick up guests from the airport for free, so make sure you ask your resort for free pick-up. 2 New Goa (Mopa) International Airport (GOX IATA) at the northern tip of the state opened in January 2023, serving mostly domestic flights for now, but with plans to expand into international routes as well.

By bus

There are bus routes from various cities, but most traffic is from Mumbai and Pune. Due to increasing demand from the south, there has been an increase in buses and trains from Mangalore and Bangalore. Overnight buses from Mumbai to Goa are an alternative to trains and flying. Book in advance during the crowded seasons (particularly during the Christmas-New Year rush, for Carnival, or when other Indian regions have school holidays when families travel). Kadamba Transport Corporation is the Goa state-run transport service. Its buses have seen better days, and more efficient times. There are also other state-run buses run by the governments of Karnataka (some services are efficient, specially the Volvo buses), Maharashtra, and Andhra Pradesh. Many private players also offer bus connections to other cities, with varying levels of discounts and efficiency, with the two usually being inversely related. Some of the more efficient private operators with well timed, well connected and clean services is VRL (Vijayanand Road Lines) based from Karanataka. They have a well connected and systematic service for passenger and cargo along the Konkan coastal belt and between the Western-Eastern-Southern states of India. Book online on their well maintained website VRL Travels Online booking The main centre for booking train and bus tickets, in Panjim, is around the Kadamba inter-state bus terminus. Tickets for the Konkan Railway can also be booked here, though expect long queues during the holiday season (which in India, can also coincide with the timings when children have a school break).

Getting around

High resolution maps are not available for Goa. For example, some popular isles are not shown in many maps. Parts of Goa lack sign boards, so finding your way around could be challenging. When in doubt just ask; usually people are friendly and helpful, but don't expect accurate answers (a so-called 'five-minute drive' could take twenty minutes). When driving, expect surprises like domestic animals and little children darting across the road, unmarked speed breakers and speed bumps. Uber and Ola and other ride sharing services with 4 wheelers are banned in Goa.

By motorbike

There is a choice of manual and automatic gearbox motorbikes and scooters to be rented (typically without helmets). Those planning to stay long may consider buying one instead. Rentals are around ₹350 a day (₹400 in non-peak season) for a Honda Activa scooter and a little more if one is looking for a geared motorcycle. Many small roadside shops sell petrol at ₹105 per litre as of early May 2022, while the going rate at a station (these are hard to locate in the coastal areas) would maybe be a little more than ₹105 per litre. For the motorbikes, always ask for a discount if renting long-term (one month or more). You should not have to pay more than ₹100 per day. Ensure that you have all the ownership documents of the bike. Also, avoid taking motorbikes with yellow plates out of Goa, as it is a punishable offence. Hiring a bike with white plates is acceptable for local travel in the immediate vicinity but if you want to travel further afield then always rent a bike with yellow plates. Wearing a crash helmet is compulsory when you go on any major roads (there is a ₹100 fine for not wearing one). Foreigners will need an International Driving Permit (Convention 1949); this is the first thing police will ask you for if stopped. You should also carry your normal driving licence with you.

By bus

Travelling by bus in Goa is extremely convenient as the road network easily connects all the places in Goa with roads. State Transport Corporation and private buses are available which serve transport services in major locations. Despite the off-schedule service, noise and overcrowding, there is some unique charm in travelling by private buses which are designed with colourful local characters. Buses are inexpensive and fares are often around ₹4-6. ₹10-15 for a 30-40 km ride.

See

Art & culture

Goa has more than its fair share of museums, art galleries and libraries. You will find many government run museums in Panaji, including the Goa State museum, the Kala Academy, the Central Library and the Goa Science Centre. In Vasco da Gama, you can find the Naval Aviation Museum, a great place to see vintage aircraft. Old Goa is a great place to see examples of Christian religious art, and sometimes, secular art. There you can find the Christian Art Museum and also a modern art gallery containing the works of surrealist Dom Martin. In Mormugao, you can find the Religious Museum of the Blessed Joseph Vaz. The Xavier Centre of Historical Research at Bardez also has a gallery on Christian Art. Attracted by Goa's bohemian life, many artists, painters and architects have made their home here. They too have proceeded to set up art galleries and museums. An example of this is Subodh Kerkar's art gallery in Candolim. Benaulim also has the Goa Chitra Museum, containing the largest collection of ethnographic artifacts ever assembled in one place.

Other museums of note are Gerard da Cunha's architectural museum Houses of Goa in Benaulim, Big Foot(aka Ancestral Goa) at Loutolim, Salcete, an attempt to illustrate and recreate Goa's traditional past. There's even a vintage-cars collection of sorts -- Ashvek Vintage World, in Nuvem, Salcete The Latin Quarter of Panjim or Fontain has many heritage buildings, some preserved in their original condition.

Beaches

Goa is famous for its beaches, ancient temples and churches, and the Goan carnival.

Do

Carnival. Held in mid-February, just before Lent, the four-day event features lively processions, floats, the strumming of guitars, graceful dances and non-stop festivity. Diving — the season is between mid-October to mid-May. Diving is not possible during the monsoons in India (June till mid-October). The water temperature is 27-30⁰ C. The local diving consists of dive sites around Grande Island, just off the coast near Vasco da Gama. The dive sites are mostly 12-16 m deep, and visibility varies through the season with an average of around 5-6 m. Marine life is abundant, with many species of reef fish, hard and soft coral, and several shipwrecks to dive. Several dive centres conduct PADI courses and organize dive trips to Pigeon Island (also known locally as Netrani Island) in the neighbouring state of Karnataka. Jet-ski — with banana ride, bumper ride and parasailing. Head to Anjuna /Baga / Calangute beach during daytime and you will find many small groups of vendors offering these. If in a small group, with adequate bargaining and luck, you can bargain to around ₹1,000 - 1500 (season) and a little lesser in the off-season for a 1 short round jet-ski ride, 5-min banana ride, 5-min bumper ride and a 1 min para-sailing session per person. These activities are also available on less popular beaches and you could get a bargain there as compared to popular beaches where demand exceeds supply. Kitesurfing — not the best place in the world to try kite surfing, but it still has something to offer. Check Morjim, Arambol and Aswem beaches in North Goa. You can find instructors in Morjim, that take ₹8,000-12,000 for beginners course. The season starts in January, you can expect 1-2 windy days a week during January and February, and 2-3 days a week during March. Most people use 10-14 m² kites. Water is choppy most of the time, don't expect wave riding. Bungee Jumping — at Mayem lake. Paragliding — check Arambol beach in North Goa for tandem paragliders. Relax at the beaches — Goa has an almost unbroken 70 km coastline of beaches. Don't forget to carry suntan, towels and chappals along when hitting the beach. Beachbeds can be hired for ₹100 per hour, you should get the beach bed for free if you are ordering snacks from the shack. Trekking and camping — October to December is the perfect time to go trekking in Goa. The Goa Hiking Association in Panaji organizes a major trekking program in October each year. The Goa Branch of the Youth Hostel Association of India also runs Trekking expeditions and Family camping trips in Goa every December. Some recommended places to trek and hike include the Sahyadri Hills, Devils Canyon and the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary in Mollem, the Chandrasurya Temple in Netravali (2 hr south of Panaji), and the Kuveshi Falls to Castle Rock just over the border in Karnataka state.

Volunteering

Volunteering Goa, based in Porvorim (on the main Panjim-Mapusa highway (NH17)), ☏ +91 860 5458574, info@volunteering-goa.com. You can experience the real Goa while helping in projects in orphanages, nature centres, animal rescue and charity shops.

Shopping

Goan handicrafts are under-appreciated and can be a real bargain. Their range includes carved furniture, brassware, crochet and more (see section on the government-run Aparant emporia). Global items come in amazing diversity specially at the night markets of North Goa. In Panjim, the 18th June Rd is faster emerging as a lure for shoppers and tourists. Mapusa, while hosting a traditional market each Friday, attracts a number of tourists, specially foreigners. Goa's talented goldsmiths are neatly lined up at Mapusa's market, and in parts of Margao and Panjim. Check out traditional Goan lacquer-ware toys' (available at the Aparant emporia). There is a flea market at Anjuna. Health tourism, foreign tourists come here for medical services. There are a number of outlets that offer a form of 'health tourism'. These include centres like Dr Pimenta's Dental Practice at Romano Chambers (near the Old Petrol Pump in Calangute) and Lake Plaza near Nehru Stadium in Margao.

Handicrafts

The Aparant network of outlets are managed by the State-run Goa Handicrafts network. In their 10 outlets across Goa you may find an interesting range of handicrafts from Goa. Items range include shell-work, ceramic, bamboo, paper mache, coconut-items and fibre. If visitors have a problem with carrying back some the (more fragile) handicrafts home, then fibre is a good choice. Four outlets are in Panjim, at Vasco da Gama, (on Swatantra Path, at the Vasco Residency) and at the local GTDC-run "residency" hotels in Margay, Mapusa, Calangute, the Bicholim Pottery Production Centre at the Industrial Estate, and at Loutolim's Big Foot. In Panjim, the other outlets of Aparant are at the Udyog Bhavan, (opposite the Goa Police Headquarter, near the Ferry Jetty); at the main Kadamba bus-terminus; and at the Crafts Complex office of the Goa Handicrafts in Neugi Nagar, (Rua de Ourem). The largest number of items are available at the last location, about 2.5 km from the centre of town. Products of dry coconuts and coconut-shells are carved and often designed to fit on a wooden base. Items produced include table lamps, flower pots, table clocks, different religious statues and decorative items. Crochet items of beautiful designs and shapes. Likewise, sea-shells that were once discarded by the beach get transformed by artisans. Traditional ceramics include pots, ash-trays, flower pots and images of gods. Same for the case of bamboo products. A few of these items are produced in-house at the Goa Handicrafts' centre in Bicholim. Others come from artisans across the state. This network has done a fair job in highlighting the skills of geographically scattered local artisans, and also finding them the market to help sustain their talents. Hand-painted ceramics, Goa has its own unique product. Furniture, is another area of interest, in terms of shopping options. Despite its bulky nature antiques are also a growing business.

Eat

The Goan staple diet consists of rice and fish curry, along with pickles and fried fish. This can be found on many of the beach shacks. The Goan cuisine is a blend of Portuguese and local flavours. Many dishes such as prawn balchao and kingfish in garlic have distinct Portuguese flavour. The cuisine is mostly seafood based, the staple foods are rice and fish. Kingfish (vison or visvan) is the most common delicacy, others include pomfret, shark, tuna, and mackerel. Among the shellfish are crabs, prawns, tiger prawns, lobster, squid, and mussels.

Dishes such as vindaloo, dopiaza, xacuti (pronounced "chacuti") and cafreal will be familiar from Indian restaurant menus abroad, and are typical Goan dishes. Bebinca is a traditional Goan layered pudding which can be found "homemade" at certain hotels. Although vindaloo is usually made from beef at Indian restaurants in the West, in Goa vindaloo is usually made from pork. Serradura is a Portuguese dessert found exclusively in Goa and hence a must try. Most beaches have shacks that serve surprisingly delicious meals, especially seafood. They will typically consult you to see how you like your food. Don't miss the shack eating experience. Most fancy hotels and restaurants serve terrible food. Therefore, it is best to eat at local places; ask a taxi driver where these would be and don't let him take you to any fancy restaurants as they receive commission.

Drink

For a destination which tends to be costlier -- in almost everything -- than the rest of India, Goa has liquors and wines that are priced noticeably low. Products available range from wine (red and white), to the oddly-named Indian-made foreign liquors (IMFLs, which include whisky, brandy, rum, gin, vodka and more), and local liquors (basically cashew and coconut feni). Prices of domestic products range from ₹40 to ₹350 per bottle.

Feni

There are two local brews long made and drunk in Goa: cashew feni and coconut feni. One comes from the cashew apple, and the other from the sap of the coconut tree. Feni-brewing skills have been honed by Goa's former Portuguese rulers. The cashew was brought in by the Portuguese, and today it is integral to Goan society and the economy. Cashew-apples go to waste in neighbouring states, so they are imported from nearby Maharashtra into Goa. Feni has come to become synonymous with Goa. Cashew Feni has been accorded protection as a Geographical Indication so it can be made only in Goa. Feni has a strong taste, and some like it but some don't. At one of the liquor outlets in Panjim, you can run into bus-loads of tourists picking up souvenirs of feni.

Wine and other products

Of course, there are a range of other options too. Local wines are priced at between ₹40-150 per bottle. Goa hosts the "Grape Escape", a festival of wines, around the start of each year, often held in mid-February. Do try Urrak. It's a local drink with smoky flavour. Ask for it at local bars. It's a summer drink, with a refreshing taste and light alcohol. In terms of local products, Madame Rosa has also been diversifying into coffee and other liqueur. Flavours include mango, anise, almond and chocolate mint. PVV (Pedro Vincent Vaz), another prominent brand, comes out with its cashew and palm products (in sizes of 750 ml, 180 ml and 60 ml). Other brands have names like Dom Pedro, Goan Treasure, Cashew Inside, Fruit Shape, among others.

Sleep

Goa is one of the more expensive states in India to stay in. During the peak season, which lasts from November to late March, the prices are very high. Especially in December, 5-star hotel rates range from around ₹20,000—35,000 per night. All tourist spots charge more in the peak season. Huts/shacks are an economical and fun option to consider. These can be found along most of the beaches, prices range from ₹400-600 and you get a whole hut with a double bed, lock, towels and an attached bathroom with toilet. Beach huts are closed during the monsoon. The last week of the year, between Christmas and New Year the place is usually completely packed. Try to avoid that overhyped week and you will get a better deal without the added pressures. Farmstays are an increasingly popular option away from the crowds. Farmstays are available in some of the more rural parts of Goa.

Stay safe

Be careful when wading at the beach as undertow riptide currents can be strong in certain beaches. Avoid the mouths of all rivers (such as the Mandovi River at Miramar), especially at low tide when the flow of the water current out to sea is the strongest. And just don't get into the water at all in the off season. The safe swimming period in Goa is November to early May. Avoid contact with unprocessed cashew nuts as they contain an irritant ('urusiol') also present in poison ivy. The cashew apple is edible when ripe. Goans are very friendly and helpful. If you meet a driver you like, get their contact information and book them for subsequent trips. Travel guides can be expensive and have been known to dupe foreign visitors. Beware of guides offering to take you to a disco with lots of attractive girls, who will dance with you. This is a scam. Don't go to cheap disco clubs, which are mostly in Calangute, Baga and Anjuna. They steal your money and put you in trouble. The rates are mostly around 500 INR; avoid this. Any scam that offers a free ride in return for a "prize" will be guaranteed to disappoint. It is illegal to drink alcohol in public places in Goa. If you drink alcohol outside the limits of a licensed premises, you could be fined or given a prison sentence. You can drink within the limits of a registered beach shack or bar, for example, but not on an open beach or road. Beware the 'ear doctors', who are more likely to accost men than women and 'produce' some tiny revolting creature, supposedly from your ear, for which they then offer a 'cure'. It is, however, humorous to read the cards they print up promoting themselves. While travelling by train, beware of pickpockets, strangers who offer you snacks or tea, and other such people who make trains in India a regular hunting ground. Do not take off your shoes in non-A/C coaches, or they might get stolen. The same goes with all your valuables. Don't trust travel agents who say that a train is fully booked. They want you to hire a car that costs more and provides them a kickback. A better thing to do is to check out the details yourself on the Indian Railways website. Also, you can book your railway ticket online. Temperatures in winter and summer can be extreme, so do not forget sunscreen.

Emergency services

Goa now has a number — ☏ 108 for medical emergencies. This service is run by the GVK EMRI (Emergency Management and Research Institute) and is based out of Goa Medical College (Bambolim) and has ambulances posted at various parts of Goa. These ambulances are fully equipped and have trained paramedics.

Go next

Amboli — around 130 km from Goa, Amboli is one of the most preferred destinations for visitors, especially for honeymooners. It is in Maharashtra and features several spots such as Hiranyakeshi Temple, Nagatta Falls, Bauxite mines and Shirgaonkar. Gokarna — around 132 km from Goa and exact replica of Goa. It is surrounded by a plethora of beaches like Kundle Beach, Paradise Beach, Om Beach and Gokarna Beach. Gokarna is also known as Rudra Yoni, where confluence of two rivers called Aghanashini and Gangavali takes place. Ratnagiri — The scenery of this place has been demonstrated by an integration of good civilization and natural geography. Ratnagiri is 250 km from North Goa and features deep valleys, green hills, and paddy fields. There is something unique for every visitor to enjoy and discover here. Sawantwadi — It is surrounded by spectacular greenery and range of hills 100 km from Goa. At Sawantwadi, you may come across amazing wildlife including tigers, leopards and wild boars. This place is recognized for its artwork including chitrakathi, kalasutri, bamboo work and other wooden products.