Gili Islands

Understand

Lombok's most popular tourist destination, the Gili Islands (or just the Gilis) came to the attention of the wider world as a backpacker mecca in the 1980s and 1990s. This is still true to some extent, and the islands are still a fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. But times are changing, and there are now a range of accommodation options on the islands to suit different levels of comfort and budget, especially so on Gili Trawangan. There are increasing numbers of Westerners living on the Gilis, and operating businesses ranging from dive companies to resorts. There is a strong environmental focus as the reefs have been very damaged in the past. While people used to come to dive, snorkel and party, the islands have become more and more popular among more upmarket tourists, honeymooners and families. It is still all about the beach, but there are now many more options to wine and dine with a range of more comfortable and luxurious places to stay (though thankfully, no high-rise to spoil the small island atmosphere). The name "Gili Islands" is redundant as gili means "small island" in Sasak, but the name has stuck and is universally used and understood in Lombok. There are also some other islands near Lombok, prefixed with "Gili", e.g. Gili Nanggu and Gili Gede, but these are located to the southwest near Lembar, quite a distance from the "main" Gilis.

Climate

The Gilis are noticeably drier and hotter than Lombok, but evenings can be relatively cooler and more refreshing. The rainy season is roughly from November to April, but it rains much less than on Bali. The peak tourist seasons are July–August and December–January.

Getting there

By plane

There are no airports in the Gilis. The nearest airport is on mainland Lombok, with decent connections around Indonesia but only limited international service. Flying to Bali, which has a far larger and better connected airport, and taking a boat to the Gilis is a viable and competitively priced alternative. If you do choose to fly, Bandara Internasional Lombok (LOP IATA) is in south central Lombok and a taxi to Bangsal or Teluk Nare will take around 1 hr 40 min-2 hr. Cost by taxi meter will be around Rp 300,000-400,000 depending upon the route used and occasional congestion that may sometimes arising from a wedding or funeral procession on the main road. It is an easy, scenic trip by road, indeed a lot of the route is the same as that travelled on many sightseeing day-trips. Aim to arrive at Teluk Nare or Bangsal no later than 16:00 for an uncomplicated crossing. Night time crossings are possible but not recommended. Gili island transfer services by private car and speed boat are available from the airport to each of the Gili Islands. These can be pre-booked online, see "From Lombok" below.

By ferry

Used mainly by locals, freight and diehard backpackers, there is an hourly public ferry service from Padang Bai (East Bali) to Lembar Harbour (Southwest Lombok), running 24 hours a day. The crossing takes 5-6 hours (plus sometimes considerable waiting around for loading and unloading). This is extremely cheap but the on-board conditions are very basic, and the journey is very slow. Tickets are available from the harbours and cost Rp 60,000 adult fare. After arriving in Lombok it will then take another 2-hr transfer to get to the Gili Islands via road and local boat from Teluk Nare or Bangsal harbor. For more info, see the main Lombok page.

Crossing advice

If you are travelling from southern Bali resorts such as Kuta, Legian, or Nusa Dua, the closest departure area is Serangan. From Serangan to Lombok by fast boat takes about 2 hr 30 min, and as of 2020 most services sail via Nusa Lembongan or Padang Bai. The most services with the shortest crossing times depart from Padang Bai, which is 1 hr 30 min from south Bali by road (so total travel time will be approximately the same). Also depart from Padang Bai if you are staying in or around Ubud (Rp 250,000 one-way or Rp 450,000 with an open-ended return, including hotel pickup. Book online or at any hotel or travel agency in town). Amed departures are only suitable if you are staying in or around Amed, Tulamben, Candidasa or North Coast locations such as Lovina or Pemuteran.

Getting around

There is no motorised transport on the islands. Your options are horse-drawn carts, known as cidomos, and bicycles, which are available for rent all over the islands. The price for tourists is Rp 20,000-50,000 per head, depending on the length of the journey. To go all the way around the islands could cost up to Rp 150,000. However, as the islands are only a few km in diameter, it's entirely possible to just walk instead. Travelling between the islands requires either catching the infrequent scheduled Koperasi Island hopping boats, or chartering one to take you across. To Lombok you can take one of the very cheap public boats that go back and forth whenever the boat is full, or again charter a vessel. Tickets can be bought from the ticket offices on each island from where the boats depart. No need to pre-book. Example Koperasi Rates from Gili Air: by public boat to Lombok Rp 18,000, to Gili Meno Rp 40,000, to Gili Trawangan Rp 45,000, by fast boat Rp 85,000 for any (Jun 2024). A charter (with 30 capacity) will set you back roughly Rp 400,000; still quite affordable, especially for groups. Booking through a travel agent usually just costs more, and you still need to change the reservation to an actual ticket at the very same counter. Some speedboat charters are available between Lombok and the islands, these do need booking shortly beforehand and usually can be arranged by your hotel locally. For current ferry routes and schedules between the Gili islands and nearby destinations, you can also check online to Ferryhopper. The distances between the islands may seem swimmable, but do not attempt it — the currents are fierce and several visitors have died trying.

See

There are no major sights on the islands, snorkelling and diving being the main draw. However, a few attractions are worth noting:

Gili Meno Bird Park, Gili Meno, Lombok, Indonesia. A bird sanctuary in the centre of Gili Meno boasting exotic species in a beautifully landscaped environment. Macaws, flamingos, cockatoos, pelicans, eagles, parrots and more. Also home to a crocodile, some deer and a kangaroo. Turtle sanctuary, Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno. Green and loggerhead turtles are now common to the waters around the Gilis. To ensure the on-going survival of these creatures, sanctuaries have been set-up on both Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno. You can visit the sanctuaries, see the baby turtles in their pools and learn more about these fascinating creatures. Sunset on the hill, Gili Trawangan. Great sunset spot with panoramic views of the 3 Gilis and of Lombok and Bali beyond. A good place to take photographs.

Do

Scuba diving

There is good diving around the islands, suitable for all levels, the islands being globally known as a proficient teaching center for beginners right up to instructor level. Technical diving courses are also available. An impressive array of marine life is present, such as green and hawksbill turtles, bumphead parrotfish, black-tip and white-tip reef sharks and more. There are also some great muckdiving sites for macro photographers, a Japanese wreck for deep diving and biorock artificial reefs which may interest environmental enthusiasts. Visibility is commonly in the 15-30 m range. Due to the exposed position of the Gilis, currents can be quite strong and drift diving is the norm. Some of the dive sites have unfortunately been damaged over the years due to a combination of human and environmental causes, especially from an increase in water temperatures from El Niño in 1998 and unsustainable local fishing practices. Since 2000, fishing has been regulated around the islands, allowing the reefs and fish population to slowly regenerate. Most dive shops on the Gili Islands are members of the Gili Eco Trust, a non-profit organisation which originated as a co-operation between influential members of the local community and the dive shops on Gili Trawangan. Set up in 2000 and initiated by the owners of Manta Dive, the Gili Eco Trust aims to protect coral reefs surrounding the islands and provide environmental education. There is a one-time reef tax of Rp 50,000 payable by all divers and dive students. This is collected by the dive operator and helps fund the work of the trust. If you are interested in learning more about the trust, or volunteering to help, ask at Lutwala Dive Shop. Gili Trawangan has the most dive operators, but PADI and SSI licensed dive operators exist on all three islands. Equipment is kept in top shape, with excellent facilities and (mostly) western dive instructors. Dive guides tend to be a mix of local and western divemasters. Dive and course prices are fixed by agreement between the dive operators on each island, so there is nothing financial to be gained by shopping around between the operators. A good approach is to settle down on your chosen island, get to know the dive shops, and chose to dive with the one with which you feel most comfortable.

For those interested in learning to dive or advancing existing qualifications, several of the operators offer PADI and SSI options. Nitrox and other technical diving options are also offered by operators on Gili Trawangan especially.

Dive prices, PADI & SSI courses

Price guideline:

Shopping

There are upwards of 10 ATMs on Gili Trawangan. Exchange rates offered by money changers are noticeably poorer than on the mainland. Credit cards are accepted by some of the more upmarket places and all dive shops, but there will usually be a 3% charge. Some will also arrange credit card cash advances, but charge 7-10% fees. Small change is often in short supply on Gili T so try to stock up on small-denomination notes and coins in Bali. They will prove useful here. Shopping opportunities are very limited. There are plenty of kiosks offering tourist staples such as drinks, basic cosmetics, suntan lotion etc. Anything that might be required such as specific medication or items for children or babies is best brought with you or alternatively should be purchased on Lombok. All hotels and dive centers make regular trips to Lombok and are usually able to help (even though it will take time).

Eat

All the islands feature a myriad of restaurants and cafes concentrated on the beach fronts. The most activity is found on the east side of each island. There are an abundance of cafes and restaurants, both large and small, with the largest concentration on Gili Trawangan. Gili Air has some restaurants that offer western cuisine. Gili Meno has a range of food options on the main tourist strip. Be careful with "fee and tax" especially in "luxury" restaurants, most will charge 21% tax and service, however it can be written in very small font at the bottom of the menu and be from 5 to 25% or more.

Drink

Gili Trawangan had a huge reputation in the late 1990s as a backpacker party island. This has now developed into a nightlife for all tastes. There are bars playing live music, bars with DJs, as well as quieter beach front places dotted around the islands. Do not leave drinks unattended, as spiking incidents have been known to occur. There have been fatal cases (in 2012/13) involving locally distilled spirits when drunk in large quantities, due to non-standardised production methods. If you suspect that what you've been served is not what you ordered, take it back. Sticking to western-owned and managed bars will reduce any risk.

Sleep

Demand often outstrips supply, so prices tend to be noticeably higher than on Bali or Lombok. During the peak seasons (Jul-Aug, Dec-Jan), it pays to make advance reservations, as the best places are often fully booked. Arrive early for better chances of getting accommodation without a reservation. Late arrivals need to be prepared to spend a night on the beach (it's perfectly safe though). There are plenty of largely identical backpacker guesthouses on the islands. The price ranges depending on the season and island. Figure on at least Rp 100,000 for a basic room with fan only. Air conditioned rooms are more in the Rp 300,000-400,000 range. Gili Trawangan especially, has a rapidly increasing range of high end luxury accommodation with prices up to US$500 per night for a large private villa. Always try to negotiate and be clear about whether or not the quoted price includes taxes and breakfast. Most of the larger hotels and dive centres on Gili Trawangan feature fresh water for showering, while other smaller homestays may use salt water. On Gili Air it is best to check with the Hotel you plan to stay at, and on Gili Meno its mostly salinated. If you want to sleep in a hotel/villa in front of the beach, you might want to avoid an area near a port because the sea water there is very oily. You can see approximately locations of ports in the map of the "Islands" section above.

Local customs

Many of the local population on the Gili islands are Muslim. While the islands residents are used to Western style tourism please still remember to respect the island, the community and local customs. Never sunbathe nude or topless and cover up when away from the beach. A readily available local sarong is a handy accessory for this. Avoid excessive displays of affection in public, and depending upon your location you may expect to hear early-morning prayer calls from the mosques. Little changes on the Gili Islands during the fasting month of Ramadan, as food is served during the day and bars stay open at night. However, many dive shops cut down the diving schedule to cater for those locals who may be fasting. Use appropriate sensitivity during this time and refrain from conspicuously eating, drinking or smoking when interacting or nearby to the local population between sunrise and sunset during the Ramadan period.

Stay safe

As you would at home, lock doors at night and don't leave valuables out in the open. Be very careful with locally produced alcohol, especially Arak. It can contain methanol and has caused cases of serious injury and even death (including at new year 2012/13) among tourists and locals alike. If you suspect that what you've been served is not what you ordered, take it back. Sticking to western owned and managed bars and to beer will reduce the risk. When out in the bars, use discretion: do not leave your drinks unattended, as drink spiking has been reported on occasion. This goes for both sexes. Magic mushrooms are widely available and openly advertised, particularly on Gili Trawangan. Their psychotropic and hallucinogenic effects may be overbearing and distressing for many individuals. Psilocybin mushrooms, also known as psychedelic mushrooms contain psilocybin and psilocin. The outcomes of ingestion of these mushrooms or their compounds may be quite dangerous for some users. For others it may cause distress, nausea, vomiting, cramps, and diarrhea. Mixing Psilocybin mushrooms with alcohol is just looking for extra trouble and may well provide some.. Various other drugs and intoxicants are readily available and sometimes flaunted (as is the case of mushrooms and 'power drinks' at parties), and you can expect to be offered everything from marijuana to methamphetamine. Keep in mind you are still in Indonesia, where drug usage and distribution penalties are extraordinarily harsh ranging from 20 years in a dilapidated prison to the death penalty for importation and trafficking. On Gili Trawangan, there have been a number of busts of high-profile local characters resulting in serious prison sentences. On Gili Air, village leaders have been known to banish tourists from the island for drug usage and several signs posted around the island will remind you of their local laws. Small but annoying jellyfish/stingers are common in the waters around the Gilis during certain moon cycles, with July and August getting the brunt, so wearing a full-length wetsuit or surf skin in the water is advisable. The stings can be quite painful, but they're harmless and usually go away within an hour. The welt from bad multiple stings may last a day. Not so harmless are the less common bluebottle jellyfish that can be recognised by their long bright blue tentacles and surface floating clear bubble. These stings are extremely painful and can cause respiratory problems. If stung by a blue bottle, tentacles must immediately be removed using covered hands and the area rinsed in sea water; this is one of the few moments one of the discarded plastic bags around the place may actually be useful. The affected area should then be immersed in hot water (as hot as can be tolerated) for at least 20 minutes. If stung by another kind of jellyfish, vinegar (acetic acid) Asam cuka should be used to rinse the affected area and any tentacles removed, with care to protect the hands when doing that. Again, soaking in hot water should always be the following step to take. Be aware that using vinegar on blue bottle stings is not advised as it may increase the level of pain.

avoid any further contact as best you can, but carefully remove any remnants of the organism from the skin (taking care not to touch them directly with fingers or any other part of the skin to avoid secondary stinging) apply salt water to the affected area (not fresh water, which tends to make the affected area worse) follow up with the application of hot water (as hot as you can stand) to the affected area from anywhere between 15-20 minutes which eases the pain of a sting by denaturing the toxins. If eyes have been affected, irrigate with copious amounts of room-temperature tap water for at least 15 minutes and - especially if vision blurs or the eyes continue to tear, hurt, swell, or show light sensitivity after irrigating, or there is any other concern - see a doctor as soon as possible. Vinegar (acetic acid) Asam cuka is not recommended for treating "blue bottle" stings. Vinegar dousing increases toxin delivery and worsens the symptoms of stings from the nematocysts of this species. Vinegar has also been confirmed to provoke haemorrhaging when used on the less severe stings of the nematocysts of smaller species. The "blue bottle" is often confused with jellyfish by its victims, which may lead to improper treatment of stings, as the venom differs from that of true jellyfish. There are large spiders roughly the size of a grown man's hand scattered about the islands; while not venomous, their bites can result in a painful wound. Thankfully, avoiding them is relatively easy, don't tread through brush and avoid climbing random trees. There are normally no visible police on any of the islands, however there are often undercover police on the islands, especially on Gili T. So please do not assume the islands are some sort of free-for-all zone. If someone announces themselves as one then do ensure you are provided with appropriate identification. There are also local security guards that patrol the islands (mainly Gili Trawangan). Crime is largely limited to opportunistic petty theft, and all problems are usually settled by the local island councils; if you face larger problems or need to make a police report for insurance purposes, you will need to head over the mainland to do it. Pemenang has a police post; turn left coming from Bangsal, it is a short distance northward and on the left hand side of the coastal highway. The others nearby are located northward at Tanjung, and to the south at Senggigi. The one in Tanjung has regional jurisdiction to the Gili islands. The police headquarters for the island and the entire Nusa Tenggara Barat province are at Ampenan.

All three islands have a small, simple clinic. For serious problems, visitors should get back to Lombok (or preferably Bali) as quickly as possible. The nearest hospital is in Mataram, Lombok. Tap water is very salty and not potable. Bottled water is widely available and many cafes, dive shops, and stores will fill up bottles for Rp 3,000, reducing waste and saving you money. The refill supplies can be a little erratic in availability at times; however, do not be concerned as drinking water is always available for sale on the Gili Islands. There are many self-styled gigolos anxious to swoon foreign girls on Gili Trawangan and Gili Air. If you're female and on your own (even temporarily), you will be approached often. If you find yourself swept off your feet, condoms are available at most shops. Mosquito numbers vary throughout the year. There is no malaria on the Gilis, however there is in Lombok. There have been cases of dengue reported, mostly during the rainy season. Mosquito repellent, mosquito nets and long sleeves at dusk are wise precautions. Please see main Lombok article for notes on malaria, dengue fever (DHF), methyl alcohol adulteration of traditional local drinks such as arak, and other tips for your health and safety whilst on the Gili Islands.

Go next

Bali — the Magical Island Lombok — to the mainland and the attractions of the west coast; north to Tanjung and Mount Rinjani, south to Senggigi, the provincial capital of Mataram and further to Kuta on the south coast. If travelling to somewhere on mainland Lombok, then you could get the early morning local ferry to the mainland, Rp 20,000. Then walk about 800 m inland to Bunga Bunga Cafe on the right hand side of the road. This is where the shuttle buses and cars pick up from. Here you can buy tickets or bargain for a seat in a taxi car. You can have breakfast here too. Anyone with a ticket already will be expected to walk here or pay for a ride on a horse and cart. Sumbawa — one more island down the chain Nusa Lembongan — a stop for some boat services between Bali and Gili Islands

More pictures of Gili Islands

From this destination's category on Wikimedia Commons. Each photograph is credited to its own author under its own licence.