Oslo

Understand

Oslo is the demographic, economic and political centre of Norway. As the capital of Norway, Oslo hosts several national institutions within government, education, culture, sports and transport. The city has a good selection of cultural institutions and a good selection of restaurants, some world class but most ordinary, as well as night life in general. While it is an expensive city for some overseas visitors, many of the best things are free of charge, notably Oslo's proximity to wild nature, inner city parks and variety of outdoor activities. Metropolitan Oslo also includes most of Akershus county and the line between these is so blurred that the two is seen as one city. Local public transport such as the Oslo metro covers Oslo proper and the surrounding districts. Oslo proper has over 700,000 inhabitants while metropolitan Oslo has well over 1 million inhabitants. Oslo's influence is felt well beyond the metropolitan area and the wider "Oslo region" includes the densely populated lowlands around the inner Oslo fjord and the flatlands around the airport. This region covers only 5% of Norway's area but has 25 to 30% of the population.

Name and history

The history of the city can be traced back to at around year 1000. Oslo was according to the ancient saga founded by king Harald Hardråde in 1048, and became a diocese in 1070. The city became the capital of Norway around 1300, but lost its privileges during the Danish-Norwegian union from 1348 to 1814. In 1624, a fire devastated old Oslo, and the city was moved some kilometres west to gain protection from the fortress at Akershus. The new city was built in a strict grid plan that still appears modern, this area is now within downtown Oslo (between Akershus fortress and Oslo cathedral) and known as Kvadraturen. The expanding city Christiania was built on the land of the Aker estate so the river and the oldest church are "Aker" river and church respectively. Christiania developed west of the Aker river, while Old Oslo became a backwater between Alna river and Ekeberg hill. The new city was named Christiania, after the Danish King Christian IV, a name that remained until it was officially named Oslo on 1 January 1925 to remove the Danish name. Old Oslo, which had retained its name since the middle ages, was then renamed Gamlebyen ("Old town") to avoid confusion. In Gamlebyen there is a Oslo street, Oslo square and Oslo hospital. The original town Christiania built in 1624 is now called Kvadraturen and is the oldest part of Oslo. Traces have been found close to Ekeberg indicating settlement as far back as 10,000 BC. After the 1624 fire Oslo/Christiania was built exclusively from brick and stone; this gives a city clearly different appearance compared with wooden towns like Bergen, Stavanger and Trondheim. After the devastating 1624 fire, old Oslo (around the mouth of river Aker) was largely abandoned and the ruins converted to farmland. Today, a few church ruins are still visible under the Ekeberg hill (across the water from the new opera house, between road E18 and the railway). Beyond these ruins virtually nothing remains of medieval Oslo. The new city Christiania was established outside the borders of Oslo, and 'Oslo' remained the name of the small, surviving settlement outside the new city borders. During Christiania's rapid expansion in the 19th century, as the capital of a new state, the site of original Oslo (old Oslo, or 'Gamlebyen') was included in the city. Due to the rapid inclusion of surrounding agricultural areas in the 19th century, many remnants of the city's farming history are still clearly visible in place names and farmhouses. The remains of historical pastures can be found at parks such as St. Hanshaugen. In 1814 Christiania became the capital of the new state under the Swedish crown. The city was still a small town with a few thousand inhabitants, notably smaller than Bergen. During the 1800s Oslo expanded rapidly to become a big city. In 1850 there were some 30,000 people living in the city, by 1900 this had grown ten-fold, and by 1950 Oslo had more than 500,000 inhabitants. In the 1800s cities in Norway were largely built from wood. From around 1850 Oslo became Norway's only masonry city. Buildings in expanding city was modeled after major European cities, notably Berlin and other German cities. Oslo was for some time known as Little Berlin because of the similarity in architecture. The city council made masonry mandatory and the city was developed with compact blocks and four to five levels. This was a radical departure from traditional Norwegian style with small wooden buildings. Architects were trained in Germany and Danish and German craftsmen took part in the boom. The late 1800 masonry buildings and style are largely retained and much better preserved than in Berlin (largely because of the destruction during World War 2). Some 3000 blocks from that period gives Oslo a unique character. Key areas within central parts Oslo are still dominated by this style. For instance Grünerløkka, Frogner, Majorstua, St. Hanshaugen and around the Royal Palace. During the rapid expansion during the 1800s previous farmland outside the city gates belonging to city dwellers was included in the city. Enclosed farmland or gardens were called løkke and neighborhoods in these areas kept these names for instance Rodeløkka (named after Fredrik Rode) and Grünerløkka (named after Friedrich Grüner). When Oslo became Norway's capital several building and city development projects began to host national institutions. The striking result is the upper part of Karl Johan street where the parliament building and the royal palace sits at either end. The government building complex in Akersgata were added later perpendicular to the Karl Johan axis. The supreme court building is next door. When the railway age came to Norway Oslo got one station in the east (the current central station) and one in the west. Trains now run in a tunnel under the centre and the west station building now hosts the Nobel peace centre at the entrance to Aker Brygge. The rapid expansion in the late 1800s was particularly related to the heavy industry around Akerselva (river). The river and waterfalls provided water and power to the factories, ship building along fjord notably what is today Aker brygge was also important. Today most heavy industry has left the city. The characteristic red brick factory buildings are largely preserved for instance along Aker river and are interesting sights for instance in the Sagene (literally Saw mills) neighbourhood. Akerselva was in the middle ages called Frysja ("the cascading one") referring to the many small waterfalls. There are some 20 waterfalls. Modern competitive skiing was developed in Oslo. Ski jumping, cross-country skiing and downhill/slalom races have been held in Oslo since 1866. Downhill/slalom were further developed in the Alp region and then got the name "alpine skiing". This strong tradition is visible in the imposing Holmenkollbakken (a ski jumping venue) and a fine network of cross-country tracks throughout the Oslo forest, as well as the skiing museum. Since 1947, Oslo has given a big Christmas tree to London in gratitude for the help and support to Norway during World War 2. The tree is prominently displayed on Trafalgar Square and decorated in Norwegian style. While Oslo has been a safe city in modern times, the government district was hit by a terrorist bomb blast in 2011, killing eight people. The damaged buildings have not been replaced (as of 2020).

Geography

Oslo, with its approximately 453 km², is one of the largest capitals in the world by area, but most of it is forest, making Oslo a city in close contact with the nature surrounding it. If major suburbs outside city limits are included, metropolitan Oslo covers an area similar to Greater London but with only one tenth of London's population. The Oslo fjord extends northwards from the Skagerrak sea. Oslo has an impressive archipelago of islands, which in summer becomes the city's favoured playground. The Oslofjord has very little tide, about 50 cm only. Oslo is situated in an amphitheatre-like setting, with the city centre in the bottom close to the Oslo fjord, and residential areas stretching uphill from there in all directions. Central Oslo is relatively even and stretches from sea level to about 100 meters above sea level, but the settlement stretches to almost 500 meters above sea level. The city is surrounded by forested hills known as Marka (Nordmarka, Østmarka, Lillomarka), with flora and fauna that is quite extraordinary for a city of this size. Moose are commonplace (easily spotted in winter), and the whole of the capital is part of Norway's wolf reserve (even if they rarely come here). The city centre is bounded by Oslo Central Station (Oslo S) to the east, the Royal Palace (Slottet) to the west and the seafront (from Akershus fortress to Aker brygge) to the south. It's fairly compact and easily walkable. Karl Johans gate, the mostly pedestrian main street connecting Oslo S and the Palace, is the main artery of downtown Oslo. However, several of the neighbourhoods close to the centre hold interesting sights and entertainment offerings, so to explore these you should make use of the city's comprehensive public transport system.

Getting there

By plane

Oslo is served by two airports: Oslo Airport, Gardermoen, Sandefjord Airport Torp. Oslo Airport is the largest of the two and is the main international gateway to Norway. Most internet flight booking sites will show flights to both airports when searching for Oslo Airport. Make sure to check the actual airport from the search results before booking. Sandefjord Torp is located far from the city centre, and ground transportation to Oslo takes more than one hour. You should be able to tell based on the IATA code: OSL for Gardermoen and TRF for Sandefjord.

Oslo Airport, Gardermoen

For more information on facilities at and around Oslo Airport, Gardermoen, see the Oslo Airport, Gardermoen article. Oslo Airport, Gardermoen (OSL IATA) is Norway's largest airport, in Gardermoen, 37 km north-northeast of Oslo. Direct flights are available to 107 airports, including 24 airports in Norway. The largest airlines in Norway, Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) and Norwegian Air Shuttle, operate direct flights to many foreign destinations from Oslo Airport, and have large domestic networks. Flights by about 30 other airlines make this airport easy to reach from most of the world.

To travel between the city and the airport:

Getting around

Oslo has a comprehensive public transport network, consisting of trains, metro, trams, buses and ferries. The network is planned and coordinated by Ruter. The network covers the Oslo municipality and the Akershus county surrounding the city. The five metro lines have numbers 1 through 5, the six tram lines have numbers 11 through 19 and the bus lines have numbers from 20, while trains are L1, L2 etc. and ferries are B1, B2 etc. The Ruter Service Center is the information centre for public transport in Oslo. It is found at Jernbanetorget, by the foot of the clock tower just outside Oslo Central Station. There are also centres at Aker Brygge and Oslo Airport (Gardermoen). The centres hand out free maps, give information and sell all kinds of tickets. The Ruter website/app has timetables, maps, route planner and search engines for all city transport in Oslo, as well as all transport in the nearby counties of Akershus, Østfold, Oppland, Hedmark, Buskerud, Vestfold and Telemark. The Oslo Tourist Information Centre is in the same office at Jernbanetorget, at the rear counters. There are two main hubs for public transport within the city centre: Oslo Central Station (Oslo S) / Jernbanetorget and Nationaltheatret. All metro lines pass these stations, all train lines pass Oslo S and most trains (including the Airport Express Train (Flytoget)) pass Nationaltheatret. Nationaltheatret is most convenient for key buildings such as the Royal Palace, the National Museum, the Parliament, Oslo Concert Hall and Oslo City Hall.

Fares

There are three ways to pay for a public transport journey in Oslo:

Ruter app. The app enables you to purchase single, 24-hour, 7-day, 30-day and 365-day tickets. You must digitally "activate" the ticket prior to travel. Internet required. Reisekort Travelcard. The card enables you to "check in" before your journey and "check out" after your journey. Simply swipe the card across the validator to check in at your origin and again to check out at your destination. The card will automatically calculate your fare. The card costs kr 50 and is non-refundable. The card can be purchased and topped up at a station kiosk, Ruter Service Centre, 7-Eleven, Deli De Luca, Mix or Narvasen. Ensure you check in when boarding and check out when alighting. You also need to do this whilst transferring between services. Paper ticket. Paper tickets can only be purchased on buses and ferries. Cash only. Surcharge applies. All fares are valid across all modes, including trains, metro, trams, buses and ferries. Fares are calculated based on how many zones you pass through. The following ticket prices are examples for one zone only:

See

Individual listings can be found in Oslo's district articles

Buildings and structures

Architecture in Oslo may at first seem dull. Compared to Stockholm and Copenhagen, downtown Oslo has much less historic architecture. Most of the historic buildings are located along the Parliament-Palace axis (upper part of Karl Johan Street). This central area and the public buildings there were designed after Oslo became the capital of Norway in 1814. The charm of Oslo can also be found in the affluent inner-city suburbs of for instance Frogner and Fagerborg as well as above St.Hanshaugen park. The districts surrounding the very centre is characterised by the city's rapid expansion after 1850. These areas were developed when horses were still the most important transport, and blocks of flats from this period usually have a gate (known as port) from the street into the back yard where horses were kept. Oslo also has many exciting building projects, and the city's whole waterfront is undergoing a thorough change. The streets of Oslo are famous from films and TV series such as Skam and Beforeigners (see Nordic Noir).

Northern Europe has a distinct wooden house tradition. Wooden houses are not allowed downtown, but these charming houses can be found in large numbers in villa suburbs such as Bygdøy and Holmenkollen, or former workers' areas such as Rodeløkka, Kampen, Vålerenga, Damstredet, Hellerud or Telthusbakken. The 1624 fire destroyed much of old Oslo (some churches and Akershus castle remain) and central Oslo is dominated by the city that was designed after the fire.

Do

Individual listings can be found in Oslo's district articles

Visit the local city district Grünerløkka, (tram 11, 12 and 18 to Nybrua, Schous plass, Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden, tram 17 or bus 30-31 to Heimdalsgata or Birkelunden, or bus 21 to Sannergata). A part of the city filled with cafés, bars, small fashion and designer shops, nice parks. The river Akerselva runs on the west side, with a selection of (well hidden) bars, clubs and cafés nearby. Explore the archipelago of the Inner Oslofjord. Islands with many beaches, hiking trails and sites of cultural heritage are just waiting to be discovered. In the summer there are ferries from the dock by the city hall to islands such as Hovedøya, Langøyene, Bleikøya, Nakkholmen and Gressholmen. If you have a fishing rod, bring it along, as well as the picnic basket, sunglasses and possibly swimwear! Football: the men's national soccer team plays home games at Ullevaal Stadion, capacity 28,000, five km north of city centre. Oslo has one club playing soccer in Eliteserien, Norway's top tier: Vålerenga. Clubs in the second tier, 1. divisjon, are KFUM and Skeid. The domestic playing season is March-Nov.

Hiking

The easily accessible nature and many trails are just a short boat, metro, or bus ride away from anywhere in the city. Both in the inner city and especially in the forests of southern and northern Oslo there are countless hiking and cycling opportunities.

Shopping

Individual listings can be found in Oslo's district articles Oslo is one of the most expensive cities in the world. Still, there are possibilities for getting bargains in Oslo during the big sales. The prices on famous brands are not higher in Oslo than in London or Paris, often lower even if they are not on sale. The big sales are in January and August, sometimes in between. The Norwegian word for reduced price is "Salg" or "Tilbud".

VAT refund/Tax Free Shopping

In a number of shops you can get a VAT refund cheque when leaving the country. Most of these shops carry a Tax Free logo displayed in the shop window or on their counter, but you are advised to ask the sales assistant whether tax free shopping applies to the shop in question, as not all shops carry the tax free logo. If you use the tax free shopping service offered in these stores, you may receive a cash refund when leaving Norway. There are refund points at various locations in Norway, such as airports, road borders or onboard ferries and cruise ships. Which refund point you can use depends on how you leave the country. The minimum purchase amount in one shop (to get a tax refund check) is 315 kr on regular goods and 290 kr on food. In Norway, sales tax/VAT is included in the retail price. Goods must be exported in unused condition within 30 days from date of purchase. When approaching the refund counter, please make sure you have your goods, refund cheque as well as your passport/ID card. The tax refund service is not available for Norwegian, Swedish, Danish and Finnish residents.

Shopping districts

If you are out to shop there's plenty to choose from. The main pedestrian street Karl Johans gate has plenty of shops of dubious quality. The street Bygdøy allé (which is locally famous for its chestnut trees) (bus 20, 31) has regained its reputation of being a shopping street the past few years by establishments that focuses on kitchens, kitchenware, interior designs, exclusive Norwegian furniture, light design and others.

Eat

Individual listings can be found in Oslo's district articles There are a lot of both expensive and cheap places to eat in Oslo. The cheapest restaurants are Asian restaurants which, in many cases, serve good food at low prices. Check the menus on the door. Even though you should always use your eyes (and nose) in any food establishment, Norwegian Food and Health regulations are very strict and enforced effectively, so eating out in Oslo is safe. Street snacks are also available throughout the city, but they're usually more expensive than in comparable cities elsewhere. The locals use Vink from Aftenposten and the business daily DN for curated restaurant reviews – they're well worth a trial subscription that commonly is 1 NOK for the first month, provided you remember to cancel the subscription. Aker Brygge (tram 12, bus 21, 32, 33 or 54; stops Aker Brygge, Vika Atrium or Bryggetorget) is a waterfront located south of the city hall. During summer the area is very noisy and vibrant. There are outdoor restaurants and bars almost everywhere. Be sure to get some tasty seafood (or whatever else you like to eat) while you are there, or just enjoy your cold beer in the summer sea-breeze. This is the most expensive area in Oslo to dine or drink, so unless the weather is good, you can just as well stay indoors somewhere else. You are also close to most of the restaurants, bars, or nightclubs located within the city centre. A key reference point will be Stortingsgaten, running parallel to Karl Johans gate, both running eastwards from the Royal Palace (this is also the main shopping area). While both of these streets have a few restaurants and nightclubs, most will be found in one of the side-streets running out from them, or parallel to them. It doesn't matter much where you start, you will find restaurants, bars, and nightclubs almost anywhere from the subway station Nationaltheatret at the west, to far beyond Oslo central railroad station on the east. There are several other areas, such as Grünerløkka (tram 11-12-13 to Nybrua, Schous plass, Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden), Majorstuen (T-bane, tram 11-12-19 or bus 20-22-25-45-46 to Majorstua), and Grønland (T-bane to Grønland, bus 37 to Tøyengata or bus 60 to Norbygata) that are worth checking out. Nearly all bars and nightclubs close at the same time, so if you want to get a taxi back to your hotel, try to leave a few minutes before the rush starts.

Torggata

Torggata is a good area for budget dining (from Hausmanns gate south to Youngstorget). You will find cheap Vietnamese, Thai, and Chinese restaurants and even cheaper kebab-joints and pizzerias, as well as other offerings. It's close to the centre, but you can get bus 34 or 54 to Jacob's church (Jacob kirke), or tram 11-12-13-17/bus 30-31-34-54 to Brugata or Hausmanns gate. The closest T-bane station is Grønland (then walk north along Brugata) or Jernbanetorget (then walk north-east).

Grønland

Grønland is full of cheap eating joints, shops selling fabrics and jewelry, Indian and Pakistani sweet shops, cheap beer and more. Several new restaurants and cafes around the Teaterplassen. Cozy Oslo Mekaniske Verksted sell drinks and you can bring your own food from one of the nearby take away.

Drink

Individual listings can be found in Oslo's district articles For more information on drinking in Norway, see the section Drink (Norway)

Buying alcohol in stores

Beer at 4.75% or below can be purchased in supermarkets at a price of 30–50 kr for a 0.5L can. Supermarkets stop selling beer after 20:00 each day, 18:00 on Saturdays, and 16:00 on holiday weekends. It is not possible to buy beer in a shop on a Sunday. It is illegal to drink in public areas. You will usually only get a warning if spotted by a police officer, if they even bother to bother you, but if you behave impolitely or they are having a bad day you can get a fine of 1,500 kr. However, in public parks during summer, laws are not enforced much at all. Good places to go for a park beer are Sofienbergparken and Kuba at Grünerløkka, Frognerparken in Majorstua, or the park at St. Hanshaugen, on a hill with great view located between Grünerløkka and Majorstuen. Hard liquor, wine and beers above 4.75% ABV can only be bought at the state-owned shops called Vinmonopolet or at the international airport terminals. Vinmonopolet outlets are open M–F until 18:00, Sa 16:00, Su closed. Some of the central Vinmonopolet outlets in Oslo are:

Oslo Central Station, beneath the staircase leading down to Trafikanten In the basement of Oslo City shopping centre In the Steen og Strøm shopping centre, close to Karl Johans gate Rosenkrantzgate 11, close to Grand Hotel, Karl Johans gate At Aker Brygge, Bryggegata 9. This shop has been relocated from Vika and has the same large selection of beers. (Tram 12 or you can take one of several buses that stop in Dokkveien or Vika Atrium). Thereses gate, Bislett (near Bislett stadium, trams 17 and 18) Tøyengata 2, Grønland Basar. (All eastern subways, exit at Grønland Torg or bus 37 to Tøyengata)

Sleep

Individual listings can be found in Oslo's district articles There are several hotels, hostels in Oslo. Normally it is okay to find a room, but can be difficult when it is peak time during conferences, concerts, sports events etc. There are also a few youth hostels to stay at or you can consider staying with the locals via Airbnb. Affordable/budget accommodation is available outside the inner city center (Sentrum) but upscale hotels in the city centre can also be reasonably affordable during off-peak times of the year such as the summer.

At Oslo Airport

See Oslo Airport, Gardermoen

Camping

Campings are available at year round Bogstad Camping and at Ekeberg Camping.

Stay safe

Emergency numbers

Police (Emergency only), ☏ 112. If you are unsure which emergency number to call, 112 is the central for all such rescue services and will put you in contact with the correct department. Police (non-emergencies), ☏ 02800 (in country only)Country code missing, +47 22 66 90 50 (Oslo Police District). Fire (Emergency only), ☏ 110. Emergency Medical Services (Ambulance), ☏ 113.

Crime

Oslo is generally a safe city, but as in any metropolitan area, some caution is warranted. Violent crime is rare, but not unheard of. Avoid getting in to quarrels in taxi queues after closing hours of bars. Avoid groups of drunk young men. The police advise that the area along the Akerselva river from Grønland to Cuba is best avoided after dark. It is known for instances of rape, muggings and drug dealing. Though Oslo isn't as dangerous as many places around the world, there are a few working-class areas that many locals would advise people not to visit at night, some of which are: Stovner, Holmlia, and Grønland/Tøyen. The chances of your getting mugged or robbed in these areas aren't extremely high, but it's not worth taking the risk. Women should remain vigilant at night and when clubs and pubs are closing. Avoid walking alone through parks and poorly lit areas of the city. Do not, under any circumstances, use “pirate taxis” or other unofficial transportation.

Theft and pick pocketing is a nuisance. Normal precautionary rules apply:

Go next

Oslomarka is the large forest surrounding the city. This is an important recreational area for the citizens of Oslo, and quite unique for a capital. Take the T-bane to Holmenkollen (line 1), Frognerseteren (line 1), Sognsvann (line 3) or Skullerud (line 3 - in the opposite direction of Sognsvann), bus 41 from Røa T-bane to Sørkedalen or bus 51 from Nydalen T-bane to Maridalen. You can also visit the tourist association at Storgata (at Kirkeristen tram stop) for good maps and inexpensive accommodation alternatives in Oslomarka. Detailed online maps available at ut.no. Tusenfryd Amusement Park, the largest amusement park in Norway, is a 20-minute bus ride from central Oslo on Bus route no. 500 or route no. 521 from Ski Railway Station. Carousels, roller coasters, ghost castle, etc. (By car: From the exit at the European routes E6 / E18 at Vinterbro, southeast of Oslo: Follow the signs to Tusenfryd).

Further afield

Kongsberg is a beautiful city well known for its 300 years silver mining history. The city is about an hour and a half west of Oslo by train or bus. The Kongsberg International Jazz Festival is hosted here every year in early July. Skiing Winter time: one of Norway's well-known winter sports resorts. Fredrikstad is a very enjoyable city not far from Oslo, with an old, walled old town (a fortress in fact) and lots of streetlife in summer. Trains run approx every hour (taking 1hr 10min), and express buses run about 10 times per day (1hr 30min). Tønsberg is an attractive seaside town with an attractive city centre. It's the oldest town in Norway, and even if this isn't instantly visible, there's lots of history to digest. Excellent highways will take you to the city in an hour from Oslo. The train uses around two. Drøbak is another of the picturesque, small seaside towns dotted all over southern Norway, and the closest to Oslo. Nice place to get away from the big city bustle, even if Drøbak also can become crowded in summer. Buses run at least hourly. Ferry from Oslo (Aker Brygge) via Nesodden in the summertime. Son (pronounced soon) is also one of the coastal pearls. Get local train to Moss, alight at Sonsveien station, and get the bus that meet most trains. Son is a small, picturesque 'artist town', because many well-known painters and writers have resided there. Good restaurants. Drammen was earlier an unremarkable industrial city dubbed "the biggest road crossing of Norway". Even if traffic is still rife, the city has gone through a face lift, and the centre is as cosy as any. Buses, and 3 trains an hour gets you there and away.

More pictures of Oslo

From this destination's category on Wikimedia Commons. Each photograph is credited to its own author under its own licence.